In the case of the AWA, it has a Bakelite cabinet and thermoplastic knobs. The knobs don't last long if treated roughly. They will need to be gently prised off with a flat screwdriver but it is best to push against the part of the knob that surrounds the pot shafts rather than the outer edge. These knobs have a spring-loaded interference fit rather than grub screws.

In a technical sense, Bakelite is a form of plastic because it is a man-made synthetic. Manufacturers used the word because it sounded futuristic.

I'm sure the case is bakelite, but the knobs are plastic. They are a softer material and are a slightly different colour, due to their ageing, your being a touch redder than the cabinet.
Harold

It is definitely Bakelite but as it comes in a couple of different colours the others may be plastic. Now I have come up against a small problem . As I dismantled it I some how lost one of the AWA insignias . its made of cardboard so I'm hoping to get it reprinted. oh well the small issues that pop up .

All colours were Bakelite for this model. The colours were limited to brown, ivory and cream.

Well after some minor dramas my Champion Four has come to life. I discovered 3 or 4 dry joints and some very shoddy work by the last repairer . Replaced one very dodgy wire and recapped everything but the micas. The only thing I did wrong was mount two electros the wrong way but according to the old ones. Once they were turned around it all came to life. All valves were good.

The incorrect polarity for the condensers could well have been a mistake made by a previous repairer. Here it pays to have a circuit handy, although I admit that for some radios this may not be possible.

I've bumped into a few booby traps on restorations. Some are fairly obvious and others not so.

Optimistic: Unless it has been overhauled before, then it is likely that for starters the grid resistors on the OP tube will be shot & they will not be alone.

Is is unwise, to not check the resistors & I would not take bets on the dial lights.

Cabinet will be Bakelite, or Catalin, either way do not lift it by the top.

Marc

Yes Marc it had been overhauled before. The really strange thing is that the person who did this had used very high quality components but seemed to have little idea how to solder ( ie the numerous dry joints ) and was not concerned about neatness. Where as if I do anything like this the first thing I want is for it to be done properly. It just amazed me when some of the components literally fell offf when I touched them. I did find the restringing of the dial to be a lot easier than I had thought though and was very happy with myself over that job.

And the resistors were checked as well.They seem to be ok.

Agree on a tatty repair. That mains cable I would get rid of & use a gland, or similar as a locking device for it, with a three wire earthed cable. The Knot is no longer acceptable in the cable, so that needs to be brought into line anyway.

I see 350V caps. If they are filters on a 250VDC "B" rail (loaded), unless they have a surge voltage in the order of 500V, they won't last long with a 5Y3: The surge on start will kill them.

IF settings look like they have been tampered with. I would have taken the top of that IF can, instead of that really tatty fly lead. If you use a "Snake wire", or leave it long, it is easy to get a new one through the hole.

A small band of shrink tube on the fly lead, especially with cloth covered, at the grid cap terminal (similar often done on the oldies) stops it fraying, stops it shorting on the can & reduces the likely hood of it flexing off at that point.

Do watch the signal strength aligning sets with AGC.

Marc

They are the before photos . I have not taken any after photos but yes the old cord is gone and replaced with a 3 core cloth covered one . All those electros have been replaced. I have to admit it was me that got the two electros about face but have learnt from that one,. I went and did another recap this morning with no such issues. I'm pretty pleased with that. All resistors tested ok and yes Marc I agree with you when it comes to the cable glands. Making these old girls safer and they would look neat. I'm going to recap the Kingsley Ferrotune next.

Kingsley, is hopefully a walk in the park. Crack a 9V battery across the speaker transformer primary (pins 3 &4 6v6) that should give an idea if that lot is ok. Weird plate resistor setup for the Det. /Audio but as before 6V6 & That det audio plate resistor have an attrition rate, rarely good.

Same deal with power & filters, with 5Y3. 6J8 loves volts so make sure its resistors are OK.

I have to admit the little awa is a nice little unit when I first saw it it did nothing for me but now its really grown on me , its very art deco. Its so nice coming home after work and just sitting and listening to 2CA whilst I have a bite to eat before bed.

JFB here it is the kingsley

You will find the U.S patent number on the tuner in these photos