I've got a Philips 2252 of 1939 on the bench currently. The backyard butchers have been at it.

Wiring around the rectifier and Output valve is run by the shortest route, the tapped volume contral has been replaced, the Tone circuit is nothing like what the circuit indicates. Electromag speaker has been replaced with a 1947 permag and the speaker transformer is a 1950 model.
3 of the valves have been substituted, The EL3G Output is now a 6V6G, The EBF2 IF amp has ECH35 written in texta on the chassis, but actually has a EBF35 with aluminium foil as a repair for the metallic paint.

And the EK2G Converter is now a 6J8. The other valves, 5Y3GT, 6U7G and the EM3 (eye) are correct.
It has been recapped previously in a quick and nasty fashion, snip the leads off the old cap and solder the new cap to the wire stubs. And a good splashing of solder everywhere.

I'll let the photos tell the story. This will be a long ride.

You need to stop now & get the data right.

EBF 35 is a Pentagrid & is pin interchangeable with 6J8 that is the mixer oscillator

5Y3 Is the rectifier

6V6 is often used instead of EL3NG / EL33 But the grid bias has to be altered without chasing up the circuit that is not going to be easy as knowing Philips its liable to be back biased and have an electrolytic across the back bias which the Monkey has put in backward (should be positive to chassis).bias required for 6V6 near double.

EBF2 / EBF2G / EBF32 is the detector first audio as it has a pair of diode plates

6U7 is the IF amp and a bundle of fun if it is not shielded.

Slap happy Jack looks like he may have checked some of the resistors , but it would be foolish not to recheck. Grid resistors on OP valves & plate resistors on first audio/ det have an attrition rate. If that is a wire wound resistor in the RF section, not a good place for one of them.

Check those polyester caps for cracks; It is a pity they were wired like that, I tell anyone that I show how to to fix a radio like that, not to do that sort of jointing unless unavoidable, as the probability (and I see plenty of) a dry joint is high & it looks tatty.

Tinsel & Tat is what goes into Christmas decorations. There is a 6J8 / ECH35 in Radio Waves that I sorted out with conductive paint to replace the failed Metalisation. Do note on all of those valves with it that the bond wire between it & the valve pin (usually but not always pin 1) will break if the base & envelope separate.

If you need a photo of that valve also in "Silicon Chip" in a Breville 730, I will dig it out & send it to Brad, or direct. The cooking foil will work, but not if its still enameled wire and not grounded (seen it).

A challenge but it can be sorted. The tone may have been stuffed up if it has feedback from the secondary of the OP transformer. Monkey may not have realised that if the primary is reversed (or secondary) the signal is out of phase & most Philips sets using that will oscillate.

The shortwave adds to the complexity of this model. Good luck with it. I have one of these and it has a sound quality that most radios would yearn for.

Now that I have the circuit AORSM's say 1940.

Converter EK2G s an Octode & should be pin interchangeable with 6A8. 6J8 & 6A8 will work in the same hole but on sets like Astor JJ that will alter the bandspread & it will never track the dial. I note R8 don't see that often, it's an anti resonance resistor to stop squegging.

That looks a lot like they are reflexing to save a valve so EBF2 is actually an IF amp / audio & detector.

The fact that it is SW is of no real issue but the problem is if the trimmers have been messed with & the first set of coils on the 6U7 RF amp are not on the same frequency as those on the Frequency converter. Similarities with HMV by using a decimal value for IF.

The OP does use feedback so what I said applies. R25 gives the OP valve 5.5V on G1, at that plate voltage 6V6 requires abt 9V changing R23, R24, wont fix it & Changing R25 will alter the bias for all valves & that includes the indicator. That's the messy bit if you do not use the right valve

C47 & C48 I would use 500V Electrolytics and be tempted to do the same with C25. Get rid if the cap on the mains & fit a three wire earthed cable.

Interesting wet day project.