Hey Brad,
Following Mono's asbestos warning in a Kriesler thread I really think the forum could do with a "New People Start Here" section,
with articles moderated by the experienced such as yourself.
Or something like "Start Here" in the existing tutorials.

It turns out my Kriesler cabinet is not worth keeping around for an outside bench,
and consoles that are worth keeping should at least be internally sprayed with a coating if they are to be worked on.

The other issue is people turning up not knowing they're not to
power up their set after periods that will allow capacitors to deform,
basics regarding vintage capacitor and resistor reading etc. I struggled with.

Don't turn the tuner dial until you've cleaned out the tuning gang.
Don't desolder an IF transformer unless you must.
.. or at least a list of easy accessible links.

Early warnings such as these could save a lot of hassle.

I'm sure some long term enthusiasts would be willing to contribute once prodded with a stick.

I once had an article here on how to deal with asbestos and poly-chlorinated biphenyl oil that is found in some types of condensers, although the latter is seldom found in domestic radios.

It was written when this site first hit the Internet in 2003 and is probably long gone now.

A reintroduction of such an article would be a good idea though. I also have plans on re-writing the Safety With Electricity article early in the new year. I will introduce a feature that will hit new members with a 'nag screen' until they visit the page.

OK Art, here's one: a suitable spray for asbestos is high temperature automotive exhaust paint. The one I used was silver; clear would be better if available.

It's not so much for me now, I know to come out and ask,
and I'm past the real nuts & bolts basics, or at least I think so.

Some of those articles are eye openers, and they have merit.
I think a nag screen is actually a great idea if it can catch a new member joining up.

My asbestos cabinet is a junker I was using outside for a bench,
and it can be replaced,
but if it was something for restore, I'd want to treat it.

I can catch you on one thing Brad, and prove I've done the reading.
The power cord wasn't moved over to save cable,
but to keep it on the side of the power transformer,
away from the raw radio and antenna.
I've noticed it always goes radio, then amp, then power.
If interference hits the radio, it's going to get the amplification.

I also have plans on re-writing the Safety With Electricity article early in the new year. I will introduce a feature that will hit new members with a 'nag screen' until they visit the page.

While you're at it, how about that promised FAQ section? It would be great to be able to point the 'oncers' to an article on "what my radio is worth".

Not a great believer in spraying asbestos, or cleaning out the brake drums of older cars with compressed air.

I have a Grundig a/WE about to be shipped out of the workshop. It has an asbestos plate. On that I used, as a binder, a water based PVA glue diluted and a soft brush.

Stirring that stuff up is not a good idea and a spray can is is as good as compressed air for doing just that.

Marc

I have some instructions on safing asbestos at the bottom of my repair page <"http://www.wa2ise.com/radios/repair.htm">

section on asbestos written by:
Peter Wieck

Asbestos that remains in place or can be made to remain in place is NOT hazardous.

Safing (encapsulating): Most (not all) of the asbestos used in domestic radios is included in a soft mat, either woven (rare) or non-woven (common). Usually it is held together with either a cementicious or gypsum-based binder together with several other fibers. The trick is to replace the binder with a more permanent and less mechanically vulnerable material. The EPA and OSHA recognise many sorts of encapsulants, including the binders used in both Duco Cement and Amberoid Cement. (Personal comment: I recommend Amberoid for its distinct colour and the fact that I find it somewhat easier to use and less expensive that Duco. But the processes are identical. Amberoid will also maintain the insulating properties of asbestos, I am not sure if Duco will do the same.)

Mix the material of choice (Duco or Amberoid) with equal parts by volume of Acetone and soak this diluted material into the asbestos mat. It will re-glue the mat in place and bind all the fibers together. Allow to dry and soak again. Do this work away from flame or any source of flame. Do this work outdoors if possible. Do not attempt to brush, clean or vacuum the mat prior to treatment. Glue ALL of it down

Another one.. Kit out your parts before starting work,
so if you're last capacitor is the wrong value, you made a mistake.