Thanks, had not given up on this radio. I had received a Schematic from Marcus, and I have drawn on his Circuit the Tone Control, so I have sorted out my mess.
I had received, thanks to you Guys, a Valve and Capacitors from "EVACTO" and installed them, I fired up the Radio and it works ok. all I need to do now is to sort out the dial cord then re assemble. For a point of intrest the "MAIN" transformer in my set has a product No. it is 1022 9B, the Prim. is connected directly to 240 V.A.C. the Sec. has a center tap, this center tap goes directly to chassis, the other 2 wires from the Sec. has about 340 V AC. each leg,. also I can see another wire coming out of the Tran. it is for the Heaters. so not like the diagrams you guys have sent me. Anyway now I can stop pulling my hair out Ha Ha
"MERRY CHRISTMAS"
Johno.

I had received a Schematic from Marcus, and I have drawn on his Circuit the Tone Control, so I have sorted out my mess.

Good to hear that you've got it going!

Re the transformer secondary, what you describe is the typical configuration for a full wave rectifier valve, such as 5Y3 or 6X5. The centre tap is earth (zero volts) and the other high voltage wires go to the plates of the rectifier.

If the rectifier is a 5Y3, which has a 5 volt filament, then there will be two filament windings on the transformer: one of 5 volts for the rectifier and the other of 6.3 volts for the other valves.

If AWA subsequently chose to go with a 6x5 rather than a 5Y3 as originally designed, then the transformer may well have an unused 5 volt winding.

For the record, what actual model's schematic did you receive from Marcus?

500M was sent with the warning it was back biased & not exactly same. Even many the Bandmasters were similar to 500M.

The main thing there was to show the difference between 5Y3 and 6X5 circuit as it carried both circuits

I also made sure the re was a copy of Brads circuit, which may only vary at the rectifier? This was also explained.

The idea here was to get an idea of what the "muds" were, rather that make any alterations to the circuit, which can be an uneccesary recipe for disaster, grief & frustration

Transformer: There may be a Primary one 6.3V winding, the three wires for the HV winding and a single stray connected to ground.

The stray would indicate a shielded transformer and be a good reason to use a three wire cable. The last Bandmaster I serviced was shielded. That wire will be open circuit to every other winding if it is a shield.

If it is common to primary (ohmmeter) insulate it, That is a voltage tapping.

AWA did chop & change transformers (not alone)

I find Glands to be good cable anchors as knot's are now considered illegal. Buying pre-fabricated Plug & cables is safer cheaper & less of a hassle.

I was fascinated by an editor that criticised the glands & then had several projects using them??? They are not suitable to everything.

The fact that it now goes, is probably of greater singnificance. Debugging, if needed should now be easy.


Marc

I was fascinated by an editor that criticised the glands & then had several projects using them??? They are not suitable to everything.

If that was from SC, I remember that letter. I think it's a case of what works well for the individual. Although it is a little strange for one to speak against something they are actually doing. On the subject (and it's slightly off-topic) about SC - a pet hate of mine is their insistance on showing the Australian nominal mains voltage in their articles as 230 volts, which is technically correct as a nominal voltage is merely a statement on a piece of paper however despite AS60038 stating this nominal voltage, not one effort has been made (or should be made in my view) to lower the mains voltage. Even in peak periods the voltage is still as high as 257 volts.

Back to the subject at hand, I tend to prefer traditional rubber grommets coupled with nylon cable clamps under the chassis mainly for the authentic look but also because glands are too deep for some of my larger sets, preventing them from fitting on the shelving I use. Whilst the glands can be installed backwards and still clamp the cable adequately it just doesn't feel right - again though, it is a matter of what works well for each of us.

Brad: They stick out only if you use them the right way around.

Only around the width of the body nut sticks out, if the clamp is on the inside. Loose the rubber sealing washer.
Not the cable one.

Added insurance from "pulling" is done with a Burndy and a drop of Loctite 401.

I have used that on a few HMV Nippers as the three wire cable is apt to break the back. Even the 1/4" stuff is a bit thick. Even where the wire exits the base.

You re-drill in the area of that large circle that allows a mains plug through & drill chassis 12mm carefully (stepper is good). There is a spot where a reversed gland will fit nicely.

Not original but effective.

One dares not set anything here for 220/230V. Rarely is it that low.

Marc