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 Dial String diagram for Philips 133
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 Return to top of page · Post #: 1 · Written at 12:34:36 PM on 10 January 2011.
Flakes's avatar
 Location: Adelaide, SA
 Member since 27 February 2010
 Member #: 630
 Postcount: 392

Hi All

I have just brought a Philips Model 133. The dial string has broken and I cant work out how to string it. there is one pulley left unused when I sting it the way it Looks? to go!

I think it is a Philips 133 but cant be sure because all the identification labels have been removed by someone. The little bit of the ART&P label starts with a 519.

I have the cct already and things look to be right but I have no stringing diagram.

Can anyone help?

Dan


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Valve radios, They just don't make them like they used to

 
 Return to top of page · Post #: 2 · Written at 1:04:02 PM on 10 January 2011.
Tinkera123's Gravatar
 Location: Melbourne, VIC
 Member since 5 October 2009
 Member #: 555
 Postcount: 465

Hi Dan,

I don't have the Philips stringing diagram, but if you don't get what you need, I do have a "Dial Cord Layout" from an old Kriesler (.pdf 256kb), or I can photo another old radio from the front. May give you a few 'clues'. Let me know.


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Cheers, Ian

 
 Return to top of page · Post #: 3 · Written at 2:02:08 PM on 10 January 2011.
Flakes's avatar
 Location: Adelaide, SA
 Member since 27 February 2010
 Member #: 630
 Postcount: 392

Hi

Thanks for the Offer Ian, I have looked at lots of stringing diagrams today and still cant find anything that would come close.

It doesn't help the fact that the dial is Backwards (Well for valve radios) meaning the 530 side is at the left and the 1620 side on the right. This is normal for modern stuff but unusual for valve sets.

I think this stringing set up was one of those Philips unique things that now make them painful to get going, like there switches and wire wrap inductors!!!! (Or what ever they are, I keep clear of them anyway!)

Thanks

Dan


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Valve radios, They just don't make them like they used to

 
 Return to top of page · Post #: 4 · Written at 11:00:24 PM on 10 January 2011.
Marcc's avatar
 Location: Wangaratta, VIC
 Member since 21 February 2009
 Member #: 438
 Postcount: 5254

Actually the dials can go left to right and up and down. Some of them are fun, as they are driven on both sides.

I have a Philips 132, from memory it goes the reverse to the HMV next to it.

I rarely have the luxury of a diagram. Maybe a rough diagram or photo/s showing which way the dial goes and the opening and closing direction of the gang and pulley locations, if no takers.

132 has a small gang on the left (facing back) on a raised frame and has an unusually large drum driving the gang.
Fairly large table set with 6" speaker.

Marc


 
 Return to top of page · Post #: 5 · Written at 12:21:42 AM on 11 January 2011.
Flakes's avatar
 Location: Adelaide, SA
 Member since 27 February 2010
 Member #: 630
 Postcount: 392

That sounds like the set that I have. I think I have got it sused. it was my 3rd attempt. I just hope that I now have it going the right way!

I have used nearly 5m of string in the process due to sting getting caught or ending up in grease! I havent had this much of a problem with dial stringing with the others that I have done from scratch without a diagram. Trust Philips to put in an odd way of doing things!

Dan


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Valve radios, They just don't make them like they used to

 
 Return to top of page · Post #: 6 · Written at 10:36:15 AM on 11 January 2011.
Marcc's avatar
 Location: Wangaratta, VIC
 Member since 21 February 2009
 Member #: 438
 Postcount: 5254

The dial cord sold I think by WES is one I have used. Some radios vary, I did have one that required parachute cord.

Solid fishing cord is not reccommended

One of the hassles with the early Nylon type (Braided outer, solid core) is that it went hard and lost flexibility, even when it was not broken, it needed to be turfed.

Spraying circuit board cleaner on it will contribute significantly too its demise.

I think I may have data on the 132L dial. However, you do not need to turn the set on to realise its wrong.

If the Gang is fully open & the pointer is not at the high freq. end .... you have a problem.

Do watch that set. If it's similar to 132L (Sticker on back board). Monkey had been in this one & disconected the neg feedback from speaker secondary. Judging by the damage, he had no idea on how to fix it.

It will oscillate if the wires are reversed.

Marc


 
 Return to top of page · Post #: 7 · Written at 2:16:03 PM on 11 January 2011.
Flakes's avatar
 Location: Adelaide, SA
 Member since 27 February 2010
 Member #: 630
 Postcount: 392

Hi Marc

I am pretty sure that I have it sussed out now. With the gang fully meshed the dial is up at the 2FC 3AR end. with it open it is down at 3AK 2LG end

(sorry for the station markings. I think I was wrong with my description of the right to left.)

The rest of the set seems to be untouched. all the original components look to be in there correct place. It even had the original 2 core power cord. I think someone just tried to clean it up and make it look respectable, But I am not sure yet because I haven't started to check it out electrically before plugging it in.

The bloke who I brought it off said that it was working well but just cant tune in any stations!

With the condition the power cord is he was very lucky not to get a belt because the active lead was bare just as it enters the chassis through a missing rubber grommet. When I saw that, the cord got the usual chop as I do with most if not all my old radios and will be replaced by a new length of flex once I have checked the rest of the set out!

Just writing this is making me thing I have the dial stringing wrong again! oh well I have a good supply of cord should I need to do ANOTHER re-string


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Valve radios, They just don't make them like they used to

 
 Return to top of page · Post #: 8 · Written at 3:25:01 PM on 12 January 2011.
Marcc's avatar
 Location: Wangaratta, VIC
 Member since 21 February 2009
 Member #: 438
 Postcount: 5254

I will chase up the 123L data. It normally is just a case of which way the cord leaves the scores.

Draw a diagram of what you have now and try not to repeat it if it's wrong. It is not unusual for the cord to do more than one lap of the drum.

Marc


 
 Return to top of page · Post #: 9 · Written at 3:52:53 PM on 12 January 2011.
Marcc's avatar
 Location: Wangaratta, VIC
 Member since 21 February 2009
 Member #: 438
 Postcount: 5254

Sheets were where they were supposed to be ....scary.

132 is double strung (not double Dutch). The diagram shows as "front view" so driven wheel (big one) is on the right. with the cordage holes at about 45 deg. to rt. of top: Gang closed.

From the topmost spring a cord leaves and proceeds clockwise, does 2 1/2 turns around the driving spindle then to the left side of the driven (drum) and finishes on the upper of the two hooks below the centre, on the right.

The dial pointer comes off of the lower tension spring (available at bearing shop) and follows in another score in the same direction as the first. It does not go to the spindle, but the top of the furtherest pulley and ruturns to the bottom of the next small pulley. It again follows the left side of the drum finishing on the remaining hook.

Marc


 
 Return to top of page · Post #: 10 · Written at 8:04:24 AM on 13 January 2011.
Flakes's avatar
 Location: Adelaide, SA
 Member since 27 February 2010
 Member #: 630
 Postcount: 392

Hi Marc

That doesn't sound much like what I have got here. I have done a bit of looking through the AORSMs and found a Philips diagram for a model 131 (1952 p253). I have strung it according to this diagram.

It works very well and is free to move well due to pulling out all shafts and pulleys and cleaning them of all the old grease and stuff.


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Valve radios, They just don't make them like they used to

 
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