I have a Kriesler 11 series radio that I am trying to restore. After much searching and help from people on here (see the Tech Talk forum Kriesler 11-20). I am pretty sure the model I have is an 11-38. It has the identical tube compliment to mine and is a 2 band radio same as mine. It looks like the only 2 band 11 series set with that particular tube layout. 6AN7,6AD8,6M5 and6V4. I have searched long and hard but cannot locate a schematic. If you happen to have the schematic or the service data sheet for this set I would be ever grateful for a copy. My email is unhidden.

This is the single band version

https://www.kevinchant.com/uploads/7/1/0/8/7108231/aus_Kriesler_11-41_sch_1_.png

Ray,

If you can provide some pictures of this radio, I don’t think it would be too hard for myself or others here to properly identify it.

Between Kevin Chant and Vintage Radio Forum members a schematic should be readily available.

Thanks Ian and Mono. I have had a schematic sent to me by GTC and I am pretty sure this is my set. I have traced all around the rectifier tube using the 11-38 schematic GTC sent and it all checks out. Rather than draw this thread out I will post details on the thread I started for that radio in tech talk. It looks like pics are not encouraged on here so I won't post one. Especially now that I am pretty sure I have the right schematic. I did download the one you suggested Ian and it is quite a bit different to mine. I suspect they simplified the dual electrolytic and complicated giant wire wound resistor I have in my set. Man did that take some time to figure out. But once I saw the correct schematic it now makes sense and at least I can change the capacitor out with some degree of certainty.

It looks like pics are not encouraged on here so I won't post one.

You are mistaken.

Pictures are essential for identifying things.

It looks like pics are not encouraged on here so I won't post one.

There was mention here years ago of providing a facility for members to be able to upload images themselves, but it was never implemented.

So, the way to get images uploaded remains using the Contact Administrator link in the top menu to email them to him and he will eventually insert them into the thread that you nominate.

OK I will take a couple of pics and follow the steps to post them.

Pics uploaded to administrator. I am glad I listened to the advice on pics as I have a nagging suspicion this may be an 11 20x. The valve lineup is almost right. The only difference being the rectifier tube. But it is an interchangeable one to the one in my set. Sadly I cannot find a schematic for the x variant. I did find an old post from Marcc detailing how the chassis stamp is not proof of model as they frequently put different models in that chassis without changing the stamp. Anyway I hope this aids in identifying the model. My money is still on the 11 38 but I'm interested to hear of confirmation or not.
I put a tone signal across the output transformer and got the tone from the speaker so I think I got lucky there. Cheers Ray.

I pointed out that it was a range of different chasses that went into a common cabinet. Kriesler cabinet numbering, is never a good guide as to the chassis in it.

The chassis in this one is 50's one and liable to be something like an 11-38 dependant on it having a SW band, but its definitely a different valve line up to 11-20 irrespective of the fact that its a reflexed set.

Sorry. My mistake. hopefully the pics will shed some light.

The photos have been received. I will be doing server updates shortly and following that the photos will be uploaded.

Photos uploaded.

Looks like a typical Kriesler, the green paint where its been factory inspected. I always love the tapped resistor topside, in some radios they are alive.

Do make sure that 50K & 500K are checked. Those resistors especially on output valve grids have an attrition rate, (47K & 470K) also plate resistors on the reflexed detector tube 6AD8.

I see one electrolytic, circuit shows two. Running the wires through the sky is a bad. They should be as close as possible to the metal chassis, otherwise there is a high risk of instability from radiation & induction.

This comes under :"Lead dress" and can be critical.

The one electro is a double electro, so 2 in 1 (see wires on left side). It's a 16μF and 8μF in one can.

I can see that in the first photo it says it's a 11-20. I have a few 11-7 radios, and every one of them is different, so I'm not surprised that you've got an undocumented version.

Is there any chance of getting a photo of the front case? This would allow comparison to other online photos.

Thanks to Brad for uploading the pics. The pic showing the chassis stamp denoting model and tube compliment did not come out clear and is unreadable unfortunately. It says this set is an 11-20 and has the valve lineup as 6AN7,6AD8,6V4 and 6M5. (Which is what is in the set). So does that mean I have an 11-20? Even though when I do some tracing it does not check out. Or do I have an 11-38 ? The schematic seems to check out for the 11-38 with a small difference around that big topside resistor which is still confusing the heck out of me. So I am proceeding as if it is an 11 38.
I received a package of caps from Carl yesterday so I bit the bullet and changed out the dual electrolytic (C12) and the other electro that goes to ground(C13). It was missing from the pic I uploaded along with it's piggyback mate but they are now in place. I replaced them exactly the same as they were. In the uploaded pic you can see the dual cap end with two connections is across the big wire wound resistor. That end is red so I assumed it to be positive. There does not appear to be any indication of which connection is the 8μF and which is the 16μF. So I measured them out of circuit and they were both high. The one with the larger connecting terminal measured 20μF and the other one with the thin wire positive terminal was 40μF. So I connected the 8UF to the large terminal and the 16 to the wire terminal. I know this could be wrong but I had to make a choice. I was very uneasy about this. Not knowing if my interpretation was right or if it even matters which one is which. Added to that was when I look at the schematic it seems to indicate negative side of C12 goes across the big resistor (R11) as it is drawn with two solid black bars indicating negative. This is not possible as there is only one wire at the negative end so I discounted this and connected the cap as it was originally. Time to put some power on and see whats what. I removed all the tubes and tested the rectifier voltages to the diodes while on dim bulb. they were good so I replaced the rectifier and tested the output. It was good so I put the tubes back in and started up again. After a short while I got a very loud hum from the speaker. The dim bulb was not lighting up so I tuned around and got a very weak station but a lot of hum. I turned the volume down to zero and the hum disappeared but the station was still audible. The hum was making me think I had the filter electros (C12) connected backwards so I shut down and reversed their polarity. I say them as they are now two separate caps in place of the old dual cap. Started back up and the hum had disappeared and the station was still there although no louder than before and the volume control still made no difference to the signal volume. The dim bulb was glowing this time. Not brightly but brighter than I had seen when usintg it on other sets. I felt the two caps and they were getting hot. Something is definitely not right so I shut down. I removed the two filter caps and put them back to their original polarity. I also swapped them over so that the 16μF and 8μF are now opposite to how I had them before. On startup the hum was a bit better and the volume just a little louder but still no increase in volume when I turn up the volume pot. Just an increase in hum. The radio seems a little happier with this config so I think at least I have the dual electro replacements right this time. Did some voltage checks and the voltages across the output transformer seem OK. The only problem I could find was on the output of the center tap. Supposed to be 7 volts. Instead I get negative 6volts. This is where I am at the moment and I do not know what to do next. Any help would be appreciated.