Hi all, apologises in advance, I am new here (and to forums in general) and so if I have made a mistake with anything (or if I am posting this in the wrong area) please advise!
Otherwise, hi!
I am new to vintage radios, and was hoping I could get a little guidance on identifying the one I have found!
I’m hoping I follow the procedure to upload photos correctly to accompany this successful, though please bear with me, I might have to attempt it a couple of times!

The radio in question is a value type, with a little badge on the front that reads “Trittons Gold Medal”, and a sticker on the back of the box that reads “Selex Transfers, G.W Green & Sons, Melbourne”

The speaker that is with the radio has a sticker on the back of it that reads “Amplion” and some more details I will try decide if I can’t get the images to work

Anyway, thanks in advance!

P.S. The radio is currently in the Northern Territory, I have moved to Perth for University Studies, although I am back for the Christmas holidays, depending on what you all think the condition of the radio is (and or the rarity of parts on it), I’d be more than likely to be keen to donate parts/the whole thing to any enthusiasts in need! I don’t have the time nor space to take it to Perth with me!

Thanks again!
Seb

Welcome to V-R.

For speed, suggest uploading your photos to Imgur and then posting the links here.

Alternatively use Contact Administrator in the top menu and email them to him and he will insert them here when he has the time to do so.

The Tritton brand dates to the 1930's, so that's possibly a rare survivor, and I guess it's a floor standing console with a 'peep hole" type tuning dial.

It was likely made for the F Tritton company:

F Tritton was a furniture manufacturer from Brisbane. They were located at 260 George Street, Brisbane from 1899. From 1931 to 1933 they imported radios from Melbourne and fitted them to their cabinets, rebadging the radio as "Tritton".

The label on the back sounds like it's an ARTS&P sticker:

http://www.tuberadio.com/robinson/museum/Radiola_5/ARTS&P.html

It would also help in identification of the actual manufacturer if you could tell us the valve types in it (marked on the glass envelopes). Be very careful if you need to remove the valves to read those codes. Rock them gently by the base, not the glass and don't touch the code markings with your fingers as they may wipe off. Definitely don't do any of this if you are not confident.

Also, don't be tempted to power it up if it hasn't been in recent use. Doing so can cause otherwise avoidable damage to parts some of which are either no longer available, or hard to obtain.

Perfect, thank you!!
Here is the imgur link, please let me know if it doesn’t work!

https://imgur.com/a/BODJzJg

F Tritton Company lead sounds likely! The glass display has gold star written on it (hopefully that makes sense with photos lol!), so I that might be where the gold star comes from?

I’ll go grab some photos of valves if I can once I post this, and report back!

I dropped it around to the local electrical store, who I believe took it to someone who knows a little about old radios, and I think they hooked it up to power. That being said, I found it at the local dump and nabbed it, so my guess is it was a deceased estate and someone tried plugging it in to see if it works and broke something (or maybe not! I have zero idea lol!)

Thanks again!

P.S. the sticker Selex Transfers should be in the imgur link, I looked at the link you kindly provided for the ARTS&P sticker, it didn’t seem to match the description of any, though I could well be mistaken and it is!

As promised, here are photos of the valves markings (and any other markings I’ve found)

To correct myself from my last post, you were spot on, the sticker on the back is definitely and ARTS&P sticker (I completely missed the ARTS&P in giant letters on the sticker lol! )

https://imgur.com/gallery/5ZGqeoP

Putting them together we can see it has 5 valves, and since the rectifier is a 5Y3GT, I'll assume they are all octal.

Frequency changer, unknown gold-shielded, so maybe EK2G
IF amp, in a shield, unknown, perhaps 6U7G
AF amp, in a shield, unknown, perhaps 6B6G or 6G8G
Output valve, encrusted with spiderwebs, shape suggests 6F6G.

OK, so it has a "propeller" style dial so that would tend to make it about 1935 or later. The ARTS&P sticker appears to have no prefix letter.

We can see a 5Y3GT valve (which is a rectifier).

If you can list the other valve types then that might help us identify the make and model of the chassis.

With the valves that are enclosed in metal (goat) shields, be very careful removing the top cap connections as they can cause the valve's metal cap to snap off and that's the end of the valve. Don't proceed if you think you may damage them.

That cabinet has sure seen better days but is not beyond restoration.

Okay awesome! I’ll try and carefully get them out tomorrow, is it the same process as getting the glass valves out? What are the top caps you are referring to sorry?

Top cap valve: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Top_cap

Tube shields: http://www.oldradioparts.com/pg2a25.htm

The ARTS&P sticker has an F prefix to its number which makes this a 1939 radio.
The chassis is painted gold and is deep. Also shape and material of the valve and RF transformer cans makes me wonder whether the radio may have been manufactured by them for STC, the only catch being GTC's comment that Triton imported chassis from Melbourne, while STC's factory was in Sydney.
I'll have a look later today at 1939 AORSM STC circuits to see if there is a valve lineup like yours.

Awesome! Jeez, you all really do know your stuff!
Does anyone have a good link to vintage radio basics? I don’t want to have to bother you all with simple questions like what is a RF transformer can, for example, so if anyone has a guide to valve type radios for dummies that would be very appreciated!

The ARTS&P sticker has an F prefix to its number

Well spotted. Initially I mistook that for scratches.

GTC's comment that Triton imported chassis from Melbourne

I'm quoting Radiomuseum there with that entry attributed to Gary Cowans. It may not be 100% correct.

Does anyone have a good link to vintage radio basics?

https://vintage-radio.com.au/default.asp?f=2&th=736

Another good guide is

http://www.tuberadio.com/robinson/Information/Repairing_Valve_Technology/

Also Peter Lankshear's articles from Electronics Australia for general interest and technical information.

https://nzvrs.com/peter-lankshear-articles/

The STC thought was a red herring going on the available lists of valve lineups
(eg http://hrsa.asn.au/hrsa-files/radio-models.pdf)
but there were a number of manufacturers using the lineup given by Robbbert around that time, 6B6G variant, eg Beale.

A photo of the underneath of the chassis may provide clues as to its source.

Sorry about the RF acronym, shouldn't have done that with a new starter.

RF means radio frequency which can be the signals coming in from the aerial, or as that is processed in the circuit to IF or intermediate frequency. Another is AF, that is audio frequency which is the signal that you listen to after it has been extracted and amplified.
The way these signals go through your radio are

RF to EK2G mixer valve which produces IF, which is amplified by 6U7G; AF is detected by 6B6/6G8 further amplified and to produce AF signal for the audio output valve 6F6 which ends up at the speaker.

Do not be of the illusion that they are the correct valves. During the war there were shortages & chopping & changing as Philips valves tended to be more gettable, & anything with the same pinout ended up in the hole like 6A8 & 6J8 & Philips pentagrids, & horrid 6U7 in a 6K7 hole.

You can often put a screwdriver on the flange of a top cap (not the glass) & twist it to prise it off. One should never extract a based valve by the envelope: prise it out. Especially if it is a Metallised Philips tube. If you break the wire wrapped around the the envelope and normally (not always) connecting to pin one. Break it you have a problem. Then you have to fix it as that's the shield.

Note always what is on pin1 of an octal socket . In most cases it should ground, or is left blank. Always check the data as some use that pin as one of convenience like the dead pins on 5Y3. A while back a HMV had used a KT66 pin one for HT: Fine until a metal 6L6 was shove in there and its body ended up alive.

Did not see a chassis photo?