Uploading pictures Sounds like a great idea. The only thing I can think of is the size limits of your storage. I take it you host this site yourself, but the amount of pictures that may come could soon blow out your storage.

No worries there. I do host the site myself and have plenty of disc space. By the time it starts to run out I will probably need to replace the server anyway. See the 'About' page for a picture of the rack cabinet.

That said, there will be size limits and also guidelines on what can be uploaded though the content management system for the next version of Vintage Radio will automatically squeeze huge images like circuit diagrams into the width of the forum's frame. Whilst most forum software allows users to post images, we'll take it a step further with in-house hosting of the images so the site loads faster and there is also a guarantee that as long as this site is online, members' images will also be there. This guarantee can't apply for images hosted elsewhere.

That 1051 circuit was always going to be WYSWYG. The original was ordinary, the one first referenced, was ordinary.
Probably the same source?

Unfortunately the only way to get a decent circuit, is in fact to draw one. Any amount of image enhancement is a waste of time, with circuits like this one. At least its a basic one.

Marc

The caps in question are a white flat looking one. (Havent come across them before) I can see into the end of one and whatever it is made of is cracked and dryed out looking. The writing on then cant be read. And there is alot of solder spatter around this area and has been played with by someone. The volume and Tone control have been changed and the one that is in there at the moment dosnt have the second wiper output.

Where can I get a pot like that? I have had a look at a few places (WES, Farnell, RS and Evatco) but am drawing a blank.

I think the best source of pots is to buy rusty and crappy chassis as cheaply as possible and wreck them for spare parts. The other source is auction websites. Quite often boxes of spare parts are offered with pots, binding posts, power plugs and IF coils high on the list of avaliable goodies. None are new but often these parts can be put back into service.

Oh... Well it sounds like this might be put on hold for a while....

What efect would it have to leave off the second wiper and isolate the parts properly (they are just floating at the moment ready to come into contact with anything!)

Could I use a dual gang pot and wire it to have the second wiper put into cct.

Ideas?

Thanks

Well....

On close examination. This isnt an Aristocrat. I have no idea what it is.... Pitty!

With the help of the cct provided I have worked out most of the details but I suspect I might have problems with the 6A8 and the 6f6.

It is simple set now that I look at it, but havent got to the stage of replacing caps and testing resistors yet. once I do this I will power it up and test voltages.

Marc - You said before that the 6f6 and 6V6 require a diff bias. What do I need to look for? I have a few spairs of these valves. How will I tell (other than the stamp on the chasis socket) witch valve to use. Same goes for the EK2G vs 6A8G.

Can I hurt things (Overload power transformer or destroy O/P transformer). or will the volume not be as good as its ment to be with the wrong valve.

The O/P transformer Imp. is 5000Ohm. I have read that this may have a difference as to what o/p valve is used.

You may guess from my questions I am still trying to work out Valve Technology. My trade is in current modern technology.

Just consider the fact that I am actually a Chemist, albiet I have other qualifications, unrelated.

If the output tube has a cathode resistor one would like to see its value. It sets the self bias assuming the set is not "back biased". In which case it may have none.

I have seen those advertised. Astor was one of the most prolific user's of these pots. I know Midwest used them in some models.

The wiper is the moving arm. The others are fixed and the tapping is often the one used with feedback.

There is no guarantee the set used this method. One must identify it to confirm that, or find evidence.

Those caps sound like the mica's covered in a white waxy material. Never seen one failed. Normally they have numbers on them, but no pF or mfd.

Marc

Ok good. I think I will do some more and get back to you. I will post up on monday or tuesday what I find.

Just thinking about it. I never would have thought to use a 6v6 before looking at the first website in my origional post. the radio LOOKS like mine but maby it is different or a BORROWED design!

I will stick with the valves and types that are stamped near each socket. The Converter is the only one without a marking. I will try the 6A8G their and see what happens.

In its current state its going to take a bit of work but I am willing to put the time into it (Well as much as the other half and kids will allow

I am worried about the white mica's. They LOOK to be in a bad way.

It may be an idea to post photo's. I normally advocate doing this before pulling things to bits, especially if there is no circuit diagram. If there is a senior moment, or the normal run of interuptions (eg today. started on a set & abandoned it twice for several hours) you at least can see where things were, before you fiddled.

Anything that is waxed tends to end up dirty looking, as the dirt melts into the wax. Need to see these things, to attempt correct assumptions, rather than blindly speculating.

5K I would expect with 6V6 still need more info. The fact that it has the chassis stamped 6F6 means it should be that.

Is the set Shortwave. that can have a marked effect on what the converter is? 6A8 is not a SW valve.

There were companies like "Slades" that made chassis only, for deliberate re-badgeing. Myer had their own brand.

AWA made chassis for sets branded with other makes.
PYE recievers were in many cases, built by Astor.

Point:-- They were nearly all mixed up with doing this sort of thing.

Still like the idea of drawing what you have.

Marc

Well after finding some time this is what I have found...

1. The volume pot and tone were Backwards as to what the label said on the front. All is ok with them.

2. There is no major difference between my set and the diagram, But.....

The Cap going to pin 5 of the 6f6g is 0.1μF instead of 0.02μF.
The value of the cap between the 2 diode legs of the 6b6g is 0.001 not 0.0001
The local/Dist switch isn't fitted.

I have included pictures showing the chassis as well as a close up of one of the caps that I was talking about. Red pen on the original diagram is the values of the parts in my set.

Click on image for larger resolution

Photos are uploaded.

There seem to be inconsistencies between what is and the assumed circuit. I am highly suspicious that the resistor feeding the screens would be one of those long wire wound types with tappings.

Unless there has been a mod. this is conspicuous by its absence.

Photos show air trimmers, Stromberg Carlson were one that used them. Tuning Gang looks like a Stromberg Carlson, but even Astor used them.

It looks like a late thirties design. As said that ARTS&P sticker should be a dead givaway if someone has the info?

You may have to resort to drawing it. Still think its fixable by direct substituton as many of those caps look original.

Leave the Mica's alone, check resistors as best as the 500K & 50K are of a type that fail with regular monotony, especially on 6V6's.

Marc

Hi there

The one for the screens isn't ticked. There is a bank of resistors in its place.

the one in the power supply is there as can be seen in the photos.

With the cct that I have got here, It look exactly (Electrically) Identical to the Aristocrat for the circuitry around the Output valve the 6F6. This is what is stamped onto the chassis so I will use it. Same with the power rect my set has the 5Y3.

Circuit around the 6F6 will be similar to that of a 6V6 irrespective of brand, most of them followed a similar plot, with minor variations.

Marc

Ok thanks I will keep that in mind. I just cant wait for the parts to arrive so I can start to put this thing back together.

Just a few things. As you can see in the photos the Chassis is in a bad way (rust spots) Should I paint it or is there a way to Clean it up better than I have done. (It has been given a blow out by an air compressor and then a soft paint brush to get rid of the remaining dust.

The chasis looks to have been painted when new Not Plated.

Also the wooden cabinent is a little rough but not too bad. any tips on repairing the finish. I will provide a photo when I get home tonight