I have booked it in for tomorrow Tuesday with the Hyundai dealer after speaking to the service manager he seemed fairly familiar with the problem and they will know what bits to order. I don't like using a car with potentially dangerous problems especially this one because my wife uses it and gives old ladies lifts .
I will let you know what the damage bill will be.
Regards Jim

Only slightly OT is the Ford "Barbecue on wheels" and the egregiously cynical regard to the lives of their customers expressed in the Ford memo that leaked out.

https://www.spokesman.com/blogs/autos/2008/oct/17/pinto-memo-its-cheaper-let-them-burn/

If you haven't heard, a good rear-end shunt to this car would jam the doors shut and ignite the fuel tank.

This caused a worldwide redesign of car doors and design rules. If you look at the front edge of almost any car rear door today you will see the L shaped fold on the seam that fixes the problem.

Hi Ian.
I feel I am doing the right thing. This is Robin's car and it needs to be as safe as it can be. If I only drove it, it would not be carrying rear passengers anyway. Have no idea what this is going to cost us. I now have an old EX Trail. The back seat is set up for BoBo the dog.
Regards Jim

Jimb: maybe also have the dealer check the other door/s in case they are a few minutes off from going the same way.

Slightly off topic,
Experiencing shorter and shorter distances require to unlock the car. I decided to check the battery.(key battery).
Battery measured 2.5 volts, so I dug into my cach of cr2035 batteries recently purchased for $5 a card of 20, from guess where.
Anyway new battery measured 3.2 volts, good so I inserted the battery and went to car. No go!
Surely I did not get it the wrong way around. No, no go.
Get spare key out and before checking(mistake) checked battery. 2.4 volt. Check another new straight out of the new pack 3.2 volts.
Replace battery, out to car, no go!!!!
Now I cannot get into my car with both keys.
Used manual normal key to get into car, with car alarm system going, to be told by dash info screen saying that there was not an authorised fob(key) present!!!!!.
Now to Google, best result, Order a flat tray tow to nearest dealer.
All I wanted to do was change the battery!!
Now the wife is into me. I think I’ve lost the plot.
So, after a high blood pressure episode, I thought I might as well put everything back, as seeing the car is under 7 years warranty I did not want anyone to see that the keys batteries had been changed.
Put old batteries back, and guess what, both unlocked and operated the car!!!
When I settled down and checked the new batteries. The ones that measured 3.2 volts (lithium ) and placed a measly load of wet fingers across the terminals, voltage dropped to 0.5 volts.
I got caught a beauty.
JJ

One source of info worth considering are auto wreckers and panel shops as people love bending cars of all makes & the older shops have mechanics that know things.

Did have an issue with an 84 Magna with the gearbox computer (and the gearbox they were like the Zephyr, by 25K most self destructed. I must have done something wrong with mine as it got to 88K before self destructing.) I found the location area where it faulted, but dealership had no idea so the next visit to Shepparton was via a wrecker for one at a price that was a fraction of new / factory reco. Last factory reco I got for a CM Valiant was a dud & it was not the issue in the first place, so the old one went back in.

Marc

Early Magna automatics tended to end up with cracked bellhousings and in some cases the gearbox's shell itself. It was like Mitsubishi never field-tested their cars before putting them on sale. They should have used Holden tri-matic gearboxes. Whilst not exactly a refined beast they were at least very tough and mechanically simple and the same box could handle four, six or eight cylinders.

Well not a great result .The Hyundai dealership managed to get the door open. The assembly is a complete unit and they believe it is electrically ok and the issue is mechanical. Initiall quote $950.00 . The unit itself is $560.00 they then had a look to see if there is an aftermarket unit available and there was not. They rang me back later in the day. The service manager could see the car is immaculate and was very surprised at it's condition he has managed to get the spares guy to provide the unit at cost and has reduced his labour it still comes to $680.00 I have no real choice if the electrics are disconnected he thinks it could still Jamb again. I know some might think I am an idiot for paying this amount . I feel I don't have much choice. There is no point in one from the wreckers , this car has only 120k on the clock . Anything from a wreckers will probably have twice that which is a lot more lock operations. Down the track we may have to go to one vehicle however. Robin likes the Sonata and it is a very nice car and I like the XTrail which is also very nice to drive.
So I will have to grit my teeth and pay up.
Regards Jim

Hi Jim, yep just do it, problem solved.
Get on with life.
Just a broken thing like a windscreen or flat tyre to be fixed.
I used to be a DIY on all things auto, cant do it anymore so hand it over to the workshop boys.

Fred.

Thank Fred .
That pretty well sums me up. I too used to do it all and I just can't anymore but I feel guilty about it which is rather silly.
Thank Fred you have made me feel better about it.
Kind Regards Jim

I am lucky albeit the shakes in the hands are getting worse & make welding difficult most jobs I can still handle, I really had no issues with the Utes fuel pump, The tractors cylinder head & likely one I have to sort out next week, plus earlier in the year wrestling off the tractors rear tyres. These are good fun, they have water in them as ballast, & if you get the tyre to lean too far toward you & forget to jump it will get you.

Some parts a rip off wiper arm wore out on friends old cruiser, genuine wanted around $300, sent her to a 4WD place near her, under $100.
Utes like that; Water pump, Voltage regulator, Radiator cap, Starter, Generator & Spiders in the propeller shaft. All tractor parts & easily gettable.

Well, dealerships are also known as stealerships, but when it comes to repairs like this you're better off having them do it as it is documented and guaranteed work.

I normally fix most things on my cars myself, but when the electric window jammed on the driver's door, and having pulled the trim off and seeing how difficult a job it was to address, I gave it to the dealership to fix because I didn't want to wrestle with it myself and I needed it fixed pronto. It took them two days to fix -- parts had to come up from Melbourne -- and their courtesy bus took me home and back again.

You got it fixed, so I'd call that a great result.

The car may only have 120k on the clock but it's 12 years old and doors open and close many times in that period. Touch wood that the other doors don't encounter the same problem.

And next time buy a Toyota...

Toyota, yep.
Did around 200K in my 93 Corola, still had most of the original "perishable" parts that rot out on your Forlden, like exhaust system, air con, radiator etc still on it in 2013 when I swapped it for a new one. Just fed it tyres, oil, coolant, brake pads, plugs, belts, as in service kits
Only things that wore out were the alternator and water pump, planned replacements at 120k.
Auto box, air con, power steering worked exactly as new to the end.
The next owner drove it for 3 more years until the tyres wore out and it went to the big car yard in the sky.
Now have a Yaris and I will expire before it does.
Not sure if they are made of the same quality stuff as in the 90's, but I will never know!
Fred.

Quality is an issue as is the quality of service. The cruiser has gone through 500K with a radiator replaced & a fuel pump. As it was pulling a show float the gearbox & one diff have been major overhauled. Ute (1958) is still on engine one & its had the head overhauled, radiator core two & is on gearbox four and water pump two. I converted the exhaust system to stainless steel in 1983. and I have replaced the Spiders in the propeller shaft a couple of times as the granite dirt on the roads gets into them.

The newer Zoom Zoom will not ne replaced with another the motor is a Lemon its on its third water pump in 100K . It should have been replaced at 100K but they claimed 200K. Rarely have I seen too many go past 160K, and seeing the tractor (1951) one dated into the 70's it got replaced when I did the head. The stupidity with the Mazda pump is that you need to take pretty much all day to dismantle the front of the engine to change it at considerable cost. The engine being a know lemon as I have had seen several do the same thing should have been replaced with the 1750 one at Mazda's expense. In America they would have had to replace the car if it went back with the same fault 3times.

To repair this car at 200K service would cost more than its worth. With the corporate disinterest shown when the fault first manifested: Says not a good buy and a good reason to go buy Kia, Toyota etc. especially when one can get 500K out of all of our Toyota's (even cars). Modern cars are designed to go to time "X" and then their scrap

Also fascinating: Under the heading how long have we been building engines? I noted on a Video on the WEB that the horrid noise of piston slap is common in some Hyundai's. There is speculation that the piston skirt is too short. That would put a lot of stress on it as the configuration of piston on con rod does create side thrust & the Victa lawn mowers had a bad habit of "barrelling" the cylinder & one ended up re-boring it. Most big ship engines won't do that (even steam) as they use "crossheads" which eliminate piston side thrust, at the expense of a taller motor.