Have you measured any voltages around it. And let us know.
Have you had a look at it in a darkened room.
Have you checked any resistors connected to the base. Megohm resistors are renoun to go high.
JJ

Johny I have had it in a darkened room and checked the resistors . I havent checked voltages yet but Ray Pfister ( ex reliance radio service tech ( how lucky am I ) ) has tested the valve and found very low emission.

Like I said, the check voltages.

If a valve is run for a long period with no anode voltage you can get cathode poisoning. Since it's dead anyway, try doing a cathode re-activation with 12V on the heater for a day. Try it again after that - but check the voltages! Data sheet says the target needs 250 volts, lees that 200 and it won't work.

All accounts I've read say that the target material itself is the main reason for failure to glow green. It just gets dimmer and fades away to nothing. Ion burn no doubt.

Oh - what does the getter flash look like? Can you see it? The bottle may have shipped some gas.

The EM1 turned up this week and I found time today to check things out. It worked straight up. I have to keep saying " The reason why I was able to get this item at such a reasonable price is solely because I like to treat everyone in this hobby with respect and dignity " the gentleman whom sent this to me is one that I helped with some hard to get spares some time ago and well my good deed was paid back. This is how any hobby should be treated.

I will now complete this set and have some pics up very soon of this fine old set.

Well I finally got to complete this beautiful set. Replaced the speaker cloth and modified the power socket to take 3 core instead of 2 core and it looks and performs really good.

Ok advice please. The phono switch on the back is playing up. It may just need a good clean. But if need be can I replace it with a toggle switch. Not worried about authenticity , just want it to work. I take it that it would be a two way switch ie 3 contacts with the middle being common.

Yes, every other setup I've seen essentially does that. Common will be the one going to the volume control.

Images uploaded to Post 36.

Looks good.

If the switch is not carrying screen voltage (One needs a switch that can handle DC, rather than AC) then it would be a case of getting a multi pole switch & getting rid of it, even that you may have to buy new.

Yeah I wont muck around. I think the original may be redeemable but wont hesitate to replace it.

I note that in a Roberts I repaired that whilst they used a wafer switch switching mains & battery; to reduce the possibility of flashover N to A, Neutral was on a separate switching bank to Active.