That would certainly align with Sirwin's observation that R91was stamped on the chassis. My guess was purely based on the ARTS&P sticker prefix and the valve lineup.

Joe

Well I have had a start on this one. its been gotten at . I discovered that the original 16μF cap cans were left in circuit and the guy had used the terminals as a tag strip for 8μF electros ( they replaced the 16μF with a 8μF ) I am told that this shouldn't matter but using the tags from the originals is a no no. discovering this I remedied the situation. The dial lights however lit up which means part of the transformer is good.

On testing it through a variac and dim bulb tester I have deduced that the output tranny was stuffed as the bulbs lit up very brightly and on checking resistance on the high tension it had about 350 ohms resistance to ground. This was thoroughly checked by my tech and he had the same opinion. He has offered me another set with a appropriate transformer for ten dollars so we may be able to save this one. Either that or I will get this tranny rewound as I don't like wasting these old sets if I can get away with it. Pictures sent.

*deleted

The wires are not touching any of the chassis , so the fault is internal I would think.

An insulation test should result in a breakdown condition, by the sound of it.

Photos uploaded to Post 17.

That radio looks much like a console I repaired then donated to a friend... especially if the speaker has a special plug that is mounted on the speaker itself.

One problem with it is if the output valve (6V6 in this case) changes its characteristics, the altered backbias can affect the AGC, cutting off reception. Check very carefully the backbias resistors and voltages.

I am not sure as to how you tested this: I would on looking at it not dare power it on seeing the mistakes. One of the first things not done is to power a set like that. Even then, when powering, all of the valves & globes should be removed for transformer testing. To avoid problems with HV DC when testing otherwise, 5Y3 should be on the bench until all that side is repaired.

I will always insulation test the primary side before powering, unless I know its good.

Now, that thing is shown as back biased even that it looks initially (wee small hours) like someone screwed up & R19 is likely R11 250 ohms.

What I would expect is CT to ground the back bias. 5Y3 Pin 4 & 6 to CT of similar resistance to each other (due to the way they are wound the may be a slight difference). You cannot insulation test the HV secondary with the CT grounded. Voltages will be higher on no load. Do not apply DC with the speaker plug out. Do not measure pins 4 to 6 unless the meter can withstand 1KV, or more. To HV leakage test the 5V winding DC lead out has to be removed from pin 2 or 8 (which ever its on); I have seen 5V windings short when HV DC is applied. 5V winding must not ground.

6V6 grid 1 resistors & the plate resistor of the 1st AF feeding it tend to have an attrition rate, I am constantly replacing them.

I powered it on after I had corrected the obvious issues. I never power on with the old caps in place.

Well I am getting another transformer for this one shortly so hopefully there will be some music.

You can do some testing by pulling the rectifier tube, thereby Killing the HV DC & all of its woes.

Ok the transformer that I have obtained is out of a seven band table set. It also has settings for 110 volt ( pacific islands ). I wont be using any other voltages and have never done this before so how would I wire it up. I will get a tech to check this its just that I am trying to work out where I terminate the active and the neutral.

Use your Variac to work out the windings and voltages. Set the Variac to (say) 10 volts and connect it to various pairs, noting the output voltages that result. The 110 volt pair will give and output that's half the 240 volt pair and vice versa.

Forgive me if I am wrong but wouldnt the 110 volt setting produce the same output as the 240 volt setting ?

Apart from a lacking in the spirit of adventure, that is not how it would be done here.

The first thing to do is identify which is likely the primary (they may be marked). Heater /Filament wires are normally like fencing wire and there may be a wire with no apparent owner. That is likely a shield if fitted.

Then there is insulation testing and only then power. Note that mains side an RCD may not trip at low Variac voltages on the op side.