I just picked up this unit thinking it was a PA system.
Then opened it up and was surprised to find it was a radio system.
The only info I could find is "Selex Transfers G.W.green and Sons" on the Arts and P Sticker.
There are 3 speakers that link together, the first being an Electromagnetic speaker the others are Fixed.
So I have no idea what is meant to be for

Josh

Hi Josh,

G W Green & Sons were the makers of the ARTS&P transfers.

There are several files on the net describing the reasons for the existance of these transfers and the their use in dating the age of some early radios.

Cheers, Graham...

My guess is a very early car radio. The "E" on the transfer means 1938 as the year of manufacture. If it is a car radio it'd be a prime example of what luxury items went into cars of the time.

Vibrator in lower right corner suggests a car radio.

Let us know the valve line-up.

That's an Astor car radio. I have one similar.

These were typically mounted on the firewall or even under the front seat, connected to dash controls with bowden cables.
Speaker is not ED although it looks like it, it will be PM.

It is a car radio made by Astor.

Assuming the valves used are pre-octal types, models to look at are:

220/DA, 6376/EE (6V) , 6376F/FD (6V), 6376S/ED (6 & 12V) & 12376/FB (12V). Valve line up 78, 6A7, 78, 6B7S, 41 & 84. I.F. 173 kHz.

or

6386/HE (6V) & 12386/HF (12V) Valve line up 78, 6A7, 78, 75, 41 & 84. I.F. 173 kHz.

There should be a model designation stamped somewhere on the chassis.

Also, see this thread:

https://vintage-radio.com.au/default.asp?f=3&th=655

Not quite identical to one I have here, and its a car radio. That tatty metal plate centre front of the case will be the Astor badge.

Marc

Looks like Astor it is, the line up is
6A7, 41, 75, 2 x 78 and reckon an 84 (not marked) with a 6v Vibrator

Josh

Hi Josh

Before connecting it to 6v, and unless it's a large mica part, replace the approx .01μF cap that's connected between the two rectifier plates. An OC cap will do a lot of damage (rectifier, socket, transformer) very quickly.

It needs to be a special high voltage, high current cap. You can often find one in a junked computer monitor.

I often use Line caps on the vibrator side as they have a high punch through & should not short, padder & other caps tended to have an attrition rate due to the spikes. Any original caps should be treated with suspicion. Do not use capacitor start caps.

Do not change values on the vibrator side as it is actually a resonant circuit.

Marc

A line cap would not be a good choice because they are designed to go O/C easily if spiked for safety reasons. That's exactly what you don't want. Better to go S/C, less damage that way.

The punch trough of "x/y" caps is quite high due to the spikes & transients you get on the mains & I had one incident recently where two of my design surge protectors actually did what they were supposed to do.

It must of been a decent surge, or lightning, as one part tripped out their circuits, circuit breakers, the other the RCD's, which is what they are, as noted, supposed to do.

I have seen the damage from some of the caps in those radio's shorting and it is avoidable.

Marc