So it works again, very good. If the speaker is not in its proper place in the case/cabinet then there will be a lack of bass.

Thanks. Hopefully the sound will improve when it's reassembled.

Does anyone know what the rectangular dial scale on the egg crate models is made from? I'm thinking either celluloid or acetate. Mine is quite badly warped and I'd like to try flattening it. Knowing what it is made of would help me with that.

Document uploaded to Post 40.

As far as I was aware, AWA dial scales from this era were always made of glass and my Egg Crate has a glass one.

Can anyone please tell me the make of the IF coils in this set? The pictures are in post #1 of this thread. I want to try aligning the set, but I would like to do some research on these coils before blundering in. They have one adjustment screw on the top and one on the bottom (underside). There appears to be a brass lock nut on each screw, but that might just be the thread the screw runs in. One can is marked "7639Z" and the other "7962".

Those IF's are a very common item you adjust with a non magnetic driver You keep the IF frequency to a minimum level of output. It only needs around 50uV on the signal grid of the modulating tube.

There is no lock not as such that clip is tensioner.

Thanks Marc. I’m off to buy a non-magnetic screwdriver!

Brad,
Sorry I missed your post. It turns out mine was celluloid. I was unable to flatten it using heat, so I epoxied it to a piece of 6mm thick polycarbonate. It’s now dead flat. I routed a rabbet on the rear edges of the poly and it sits nicely in the holder in the chassis.

One I had made by a club member was a plastic rod with a bit of brass imbedded in it. It broke, so I need to convert a chopstick to a new one,

I read somewhere else the screwdriver doesn't just need to be non-magnetic, it also needs to be non-conductive. The chopstick idea sounds like a good one.

The radio is missing one of its knobs. Can anyone suggest where I might get a knob for an 'egg crate' Fisk Radiola? Pics of the existing knob to follow.

In some IFT's a magnetic / inductive screwdriver will have an affect and it makes adjustment a bit more tricky. Some screws in those things need a bit more force, so you are condemned to a strong driver with a decent amount of shrink tube on it to stop shorting the top trimmers or to other wiring.

Photos uploaded to Post 55.

Document uploaded to Post 1.

After looking at the new diagram, I'd suggest that the 544K resistor on the 6M5's grid be replaced with a 470K, otherwise the 6M5 might start getting a bit red now and then.

Also, in my opinion there's not enough RF filtering around the audio triode, but that can only be proven with an oscilloscope.

Thanks Robert. I'll replace the 544K as suggested. The last thing I want is the 6M5 failing after I send the set back to WA.

I have an oscilloscope. Are there any measurements I can take to verify your suspicions?