Yes they are likely to suddenly explode and or go short circuit which in turn can then destroy a perfectly good and hard to find component else where and not to mention the horrible smell of melting components.

Oh dear, ok... Well I certainly don't want any of that! I have seen capacitor kit's for radio repair on ebay, that'll then be what I stock up on before replacement valves, I suppose it would be best to have a good selection so not to be caught out not having the correct values. So I believe 600v caps are apparently the way to go, what type should I use to replace paper caps? Do electrolytic ones need replacing too? if so, with the same type as for the paper ones? Just want to make sure I shop for the right ones, If there are any better sources than ebay, please let me know.

In general terms, old paper and electrolytic capacitors are bad news -- if not now, then sooner or later. Filter electrolytics in power supplies can cause real grief to the power transformer if they go short circuit (not an issue for this set) but a short in the power supply is to be avoided at all costs.

As most of the people who post here are restorers, we have a rule of thumb whereby we replace paper and electro caps as a matter of principle both to prevent disasters and to save unnecessary troubleshooting. Mica type capacitors are usually okay, but are not immune to problems especially in high voltage situations.

Re buying capacitors: Without schematic as a guide, it's hard to give you specific advice. In your case, a list of the values and voltages of all of the capacitors would help in guiding you with what to replace them with and where to purchase them.

As has been mentioned, working on transformerless radios is potentially lethal. Pros will not do that without the use of an isolating transformer for some protection.

Yes well, at some stage I will need to pull the chassis out and with a small mirror on a stick and a pair of good reading glasses, attempt to red the values off each one and write them down, I just don't really want to remove any components I can't immediately replace, in case It ends up on the backburner and I forget what's where etc. I'm a mechanic, so know how to proceed methodically, I guess as with engine rebuilds, it's best to get everything needed and disassemble and reassemble in the shortest time frame while everything remains fresh in ones mind... And it does look relatively simple, although looks are deceiving too, though I suppose taking many photos during, would be most helpful. restoring my radio's now I have collected a few and seem compelled to keep doing so... I really want to gain some experience as a restorer, as green as I am currently. I'm interested in the "isolation transformer" idea, what exactly is this, are they easy to make or buy? How does one actually protect you? I am not silly enough to go working on it live, except to measure voltages at each point relative to earth/ neutral, I would only actually plug it in otherwise, once safely back together and then test for voltage again at the exposed chassis to make sure it is safe?
Surely it can't be dangerous unplugged? I know capacitors, big electrolytic's can store a huge boot if not bled to discharge.
I'm not a pro by any means, I'm not going to take risks in any case!

I'm interested in the "isolation transformer" idea, what exactly is this, are they easy to make or buy?

It isolates the output from mains earthing. In the MEN system the mains neutral is earthed, meaning that coming into contact with the active can complete a 240 circuit through your body to earth. Under the right conditions, a current of just 30mA can play havoc with your heartbeat and kill you.

Isolation transformers are 1:1, that is 240 volts in, 240 volts out, but the 240 out is not connected to ground:

http://i.imgur.com/NNVkyNC.png

However, this precaution is simply to make it harder to be electrocuted. You are still dealing with a lethal potential.

You can buy them, or make them with back-to-back transformers. Cost is a function of wattage (VA).

The isolation transformer I have was originally a lighting one & came with the "special plug" so that they could not be plugged into the normal outlet.

I modified mine by adding a kill switch (it had a fuse) and an on off switch & pilot so that I knew if it was live. It's 3A which is good enough for most old radios. I often use it when starting up refitted some faulty radios as it has that kill switch.

I have sent Brad a copy of your photo with an "X" on parts I believe need to go. The thick red lines are both on components that I believe are caps that will need identifying & replacing.

The voltage rating of most of those wax paper caps, will replaced by 630VDC ones.

Many of us that work on radios did not train in that vocation. I started fixing radios before I left school, & spent the majority of my time working in chemistry.

Beware of wires like that pair of yellow ones, untidy wires like that (lead dress) away from the chassis can result in problems.

Marc

Thank you Marc very much appreciated!

Try Magandalalaine on ebay I use his capacitors and have never had a problem. But be aware the modern caps have slightly different values to the old but its just mathematics and for example 22μF is good for 24μF its just the way they manufacture.

You know ......... people are not reading the books are they !!

This Radio is 1934 A CODE put together with Eclipse parts - Eclipse Industries - some were assembled in Adelaide yet most were done in Melbourne. This is a manufactured radio by the Eclipse company and if it were not - then it would not be sporting the numbered white A CODE production label, along with Eclipse circuit using a majority of Saxon components - this was the Eclipse trademark.


I thought everybody knew the codes by now ?

Maybe Yogi bear and Mister Ranger are not aware of the codes , but that's only because they are cartoon characters!

1934 was the only year they issued the white label - all other years were blue, except for H code which was more orange than anything else.

A CODE = 1934 (white label)
B CODE = 1935
C CODE = 1936
D CODE = 1937
E CODE = 1938
F CODE = 1939
G CODE = 1940
H CODE = 1942 / 43 ( RARELY ISSUED AND RARELY SEEN)
If your set has no code before the series numbers then its after 1941 - and if your sets have no label whatsoever and its of the very early variety then it pre-dates March of 1934 !

This Eclipse, can be dangerous radio in the hands of the unknowing , yet if its operated as it was designed .... its not dangerous !

The Saxon caps etc will have long since gone to god , when you get a set as this ............no short cuts just replace all the nasty old caps & replace all resistors where required. Some of the very early sets , the wiring by now can be on the way out, so replace where its needed.

If your not miserable with a few bux, then don't scrimp on the restoration or you may get yourself zapped for the sake of saving 50 cents.

I've seen some terrible restorations of late, with the owners literally walking miles to save 20 cents! ..........who'd bother ??

It does pay when restoring the sets - to perform the work needed - devoid of misery! ( leave the long nose in the draw )) A $10 restoration is exactly that, and with that type of restoration , the sets longevity is never assured.

In recent times there appears to be a growing army of people collecting radio , yet I have never seen as many as I see now, that have no idea of identification or restoration !!!!! Its a bit alarming , but I have come up with an answer to alleviate this problem.

I have combined with another very long term radio restorer ( and this chap is a premium showcase type restorer )( he is not a backyard bogan using salvaged caps and parts from abandoned 1963 model TV's )

We are putting together a book that will guide you through identification and many aspects of chassis restoration. The type of restoration put forward is like total chassis stripped re - plated / painted whatever the case ............total restoration of sets ... no band aid repairs, or housing commission jobs lol !

No, it is all premium radio chassis restoration techniques - the way they should be done. To do work as that oh it costs $$$.............but then who cares!!!! - either your out to bring the seat back to former glory in every aspect ..... or your not. Correct restoration puts forward no half measures.

This guide book to radio restoration - the correct and safe way) will be put together by 2 people with over 50 years combined of restoring radios for the public , I think to date between the 2 of us we have completed over 3,700 restorations ...we never did any cheap and nasty band aide restorations. But I think the reason for that was that the ''band aide dodgy job fraternity'' were already in such copious numbers, that truly - society did not need any more house fires taking place, via short circuited radios.

The restoration guide book ''how to do'' I think is long overdue! I will let you know when its available , it will be a must for the owner whom really wants to relax in confidence, knowing his set is not going to end up a victim of acrid smoke! God forbid, we could all even learn something.

Another trick to keep in mind before pulling parts out is to take stacks of photos with a digital camera and save them in a file on your computer.

The ones already presented on the forum are a good start.

Saves disasters with forgetful moments.

Steve you can put me down for one of those books. I have most of your books and they are the bee's knees. So much information and enjoyment I get from those books.

Yes me too!!! Yes Carl, pretty damn good Idea! Will definitely take that advice, thenk you all so much for your help!

Actually with those capacitor kits you will find that the correct caps are all there. When I recap I just pull them off and replace them one by one but always leave the leads in situ till I replace that particular cap just so I dont lose where I am.

I am pleased to announce, I have just finished re-capping this radio and I am even more pleased to announce that it still works!!!
Sounds slightly punchier in volume, still with the same niggly traits such as rising and falling volume (this used to stop after half hour or so, thus I have at this point only had it running for as long and I think it's evening out,) the other thing is the volume pot is nothing until five to, then five to flat out!
I have replaced all but one capacitor, the "Hydra" square one bolted to the chassis because it's big, square and I don't know what to replace it with and hope it is ok...
Glad it's still working! Can hardly believe the size of the original caps, compared to their replacements!

3 hours later, volume is constant, sounding incredible!!!