Just the valves you can see would be a good start, especially if a couple of them are 6F6's. On these AWA's the valve numbers were often stenciled across the rear of the chassis in red.

Agree with Scraps.

Hotclay: The printing on valve envelopes is deliberately soft therefore it's easy to wipe away altogether if you are not used to removing dust from them.

Ok. This is what I can see from the back: In red stencil

1 x 5V4G 2 x 6F6G 2 x 6B8G. There are some slightly larger valves towards the front I can't read. Thanks.

Good work. The ones that you can't get at are probably these shouldered top cap types:-

6U7G:

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... and 6K8G:

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As you will have ascertained by now, that is a high-end set from its era and certainly worth a professional electronic restoration effort if you want to keep it and use it.

I gather it hasn't been used for a long time, in which case don't power it up lest you cause otherwise avoidable damage. A professional restorer will look for, and attend to, typical problems in sets of this age before applying power to it.

Thanks. I did have it repaired a few years ago, but have no intention of plugging it in. I may do something one day. It's in pretty good condition for it's age. Peter

2 X 6B8 sounds odd, but. I have a stroppy HMV here it has 6B8 & then 6G8?

I had a previously repaired by an idiot, Tasma last week 350V electrolytics on a 5Y3 & 250V B+ crazy. That's why you look before you leap. Did a bit of work on that before power was added.

Marc