I've just checked the circuit, the R313 is a combo with turntable so I think that might narrow it down to the R280. On my R283 the other four butons are 2 scan buttons, phono input and manual tuning.

^ Definitely not a 283, as mentioned in post #5 my 283 has two doors that close over the top and front panels though the escuteon is the same. I've emailed some photos.

Scraps, take a look at the pdf that Mono has linked in post #14.

One day I'll put my 283 on Radio Museum. They have a condition that you actually own the photos and the ones I have at the moment weren't taken by me.

This is my other Fisk, I did take these photos so I had no problem uploading them.

http://www.radiomuseum.org/r/amalgamate_radiola_276.html.

I've just this week fitted a new dial cover supplied by Peter's Reproduction Dial Covers listed in the Services Directory (a bit of a plug for Peter, a great bloke and true gentleman that's gone out of his way to help me on many occasions)

Wow. What a response. Thankyou. I've gone back to get some details. Yes it is a 9 on that sticker.
12 buttons. On the L/H side 'Scan' and 'Phono'. On the R/H side, far right another 'Scan' and left of that. 'Manual' The other 8 buttons are Melbourne stations. There are knobs for Short Wave and Med Wave. (inner/outer) Another for (Inner/outer) Fidelity and Volume

Re the model: The only number I can see stamped is on the top R/H side of the chassis: C0026317. Is this it, or am I missing something ?

My Mum tells me it was her Fathers pride and joy. Probably one of his biggest purchases ever.
I'm happy to send better photos and document on Radio Museum. I'll use a camera this time ! Will email to Brad.

Thanks again. Peter

That number is just a serial number.

Most AWA model numbers of the era began with the letter R though sometimes only the numerals that followed were printed on the chassis. From the mid-1940s onwards the numbering convention changed to having the numerals first then usually followed by the letters M, MA, MY or MZ.

‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾
A valve a day keeps the transistor away...

Ok. Thanks Brad. I can't find it, after looking again. There is a remnant of a sticker that probably said :'Made in Australia'

Would it have been on that ? Thanks. Peter

Hi again Brad. There is a 259 stamped on the bottom L/H side of the cabinet. Thanks

So, it's a close relative of the 283.

Hotclay, care you able to tell us the valve line-up (taking note of the cautions I mentioned earlier)?

There's an R281 on Paul Ledger's website that's close but not quite the same.

http://www.thebakeliteradio.com/page64/page64.html.

HI GTC. What do you mean by Valve line up ? Peter

The 'line-up' is the list of valves it contains, eg: 5V4G, 6V6G, etc, but please re-read what I wrote in post #3.

This looks like it. The text says 8 valves but back then they quite often didn't count the rectifier as a valve.

http://trove.nla.gov.au/ndp/del/printArticlePdf/41094672/2?print=n.

It might pay to try photo's without flash, use tripod, take the f stop to 8 or above smaller aperture) & try a layer of tissue over the flash. Point & shoot you virtually have to stand back & crop the photo with a flash.

It would be an idea to take a photo of the top of the pan so as those with layout diagrams of the Radiola's can get better confirmation as not all have the same parts in the same place.

A larger set like that may not be a beginner set & the turntable may need looking at. I have one here of that era were some genius made it cheap & nasty by making the gearbox out of "die cast".

It is now disintegrating, electrically dangerous & basically a write off.

Marc

Scraps, that Myer ad just about solves it as a model 280 I'd say.

The 9th valve in that count may be either the rectifier or magic eye. Here's what I have for the 280 model:

5V4G, 6U7G, 6K8G, 6U7G, 2 x 6B8G, 2 x 6F6G, 6U5

Thanks for all that. Yes, it looks exactly the same as the 280 model in the Myer ad. Fantastic. I`ve sent the link to my Mum.
I am reluctant to get the valve count, as it is very dusty. I can read some of the valve numbers from the rear, but the front ones I can't get to without pulling the chassis from the cabinet. How important is this ?

Thanks. Peter