Going by your photo, it's an Airplayer model 170 manufactured for Myer stores:

https://www.radiomuseum.org/r/aristone_170.html

https://viriditas.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/1940-Aristone-Console-Radio-Model-170-pdf.pdf

Thanks Ian, a thermal fuse sounds a good upgrade, its on the list...

Thanks to the info from GTC, it can be seen that the speaker is indeed an electro-magnetic one, where the magnet winding is also the choke. This means that you need the speaker plug in while doing live tests.

The pdf also mentions an unusual arrangement with the volume control, that you'd need to take note of.

So, we can see that the 170-341 marking indicates model 170, serial number 341.

Being a moderator on the American forum. "Farm Radio" in their conceptualisation, is one where there is a TRF stage ahead of the frequency changer. That was to give more selectivity and a bit more oomph due to distances. That configuration also had benefits for the frequency changer.

I am not a great believer in common fuses in Valve radios and TV. I have posted on at least one (of several, including "stick welders", where there has been a "China syndrome" on the secondary side, & the fuse, circuit breaker and RCD have held due to no overload or earth leakage on the primary side.

The tall electrolytic's are a wet type: The probability of them working or perhaps being safe, is akin to finding a non-leaking wax paper cap. Another reason as to why, powering is out of the question.

Watch those dial light sockets the hot terminal once the insulation has eroded or shrunken back, they can short. Cases reported this year & I had one of them.

Photos uploaded to Post 14.

Thanks for the photo. It looks quite clean and almost untouched under the chassis.

I'm not sure from the angle, but it looks like those old "wet" capacitors have been disconnected and replaced with a pair of normal-looking Ducons, which might be able to be reformed. The yellow paper caps will of course need replacing, along with checking out every resistor.

Also check the continuity of the dropper (the big green thing down the middle) - it can go open circuit.

Going by the photo, it looks like at least 1 of the 2 wet electro cans is still connected.
I am a fan of attempting to re-form electros but those two Ducons / Aerovox caps are just too old and the attempt would likely not result in a usable ESR.

Replacements can be 10μF and rated at 600 volts - hard to get these days. 450 volt caps are only just viable because the rectifier warms up ahead of the rest of the valves and the B+ during warmup will be about 450 volts to allow for the voltage drop across the speaker field coil.

2 core power flex MUST be replaced with 3 core and knots are not allowed!
I use these:
https://www.jaycar.com.au/4-8mm-dia-waterproof-cable-glands-pack-of-2/p/HP0724

Jaycar also have 10μF 450V
https://www.jaycar.com.au/10uf-450vdc-electrolytic-rb-capacitor/p/RE6078

While you are there, Jaycar also have CAT.NO: ST3800 thermal fuse that would be suitable.
Also sleeving CAT.NO: WS5511.
To join wires: CAT.NO: HM3194

No I don't have shares in Jaycar!

Needless to say all those paper caps will have to go.

And that tuning mech looks like it could be a friction drive - NO! now that I've seen the pictures!
That lid will have to go and you'll need nylon dial cord and a tensioning spring.
The cord makes 2 or 3 turns around the flywheel shaft. I found some suitable cord at Spotlight, it's purple bead stringing cord.

Nice neat chassis, easy to work on!

Re the under chassis photos.
That is a very clean set!
Yes, the electros have most likely dried out and a service guy has soldered in replacements onto the terminals, standard procedure.
With luck and care those Ducons will re-form, by Variac or dim bulb powering
.
However its easier to simply pull the old caps out of the carboard cylinders and pop in some modern replacements.
Some of the wax caps need replacing and some resistors will be too far (say more than 20%) out of value.
Replace caps with 400 to 600 volt types and resistors with 1 watt 600 volt minimum types.
Don't put in 1/4 watt types they just smoke.
Do put in a three core earthed power cord with proper clamp.

What a great starter set to 'over haul'.
I would do a respectful clean up of the chassis top with cleaner fluids and brush.
Give the cabinet a clean up and wax.
Replace any dud parts and it will work well and look great.

Fred.

Nothing to add as much has been said, just to comment a nice looking clean radio. The dial will look good when all lit up and the set should be a good performer.

Good luck with your restoration.

One of the reasons double posting is banned on the American Forum is its very clear ability to cause utter confusion & this lot needs merging.

This is the third time I have tried a reply. The fourth world wireless NBN is going from four greens to one green and two orange and apparently NBN is looking after the landline which has not broken down in January. You need it as the Telstra signal has been pathetic from day one of mobile both 3G (3rd go) and 4G (fourth failure) are hopeless. The Mobile connects to a tower 40Km away & I have it in writing that they have no intention of fixing it.

As noted I have no faith in fuses in radio's. That set should be an easy fix without the circuit. There is a resistor (I believe) with a metal cap, those tend to be unreliable. The green "Candohm" resistor looks like it may have a burnt out section. Possibly that the back bias and it fried with a short. However, they are notoriously unreliable at the best of times and is replaced by fixed resistances.

A trap is to uprate the back bias resistor. That should "sail with the wind". The objective being that on overload (As I suspect) it acts as a "fusistor" and fries, which is a lot better than the rectifier or transformer winding frying.



Marc

I have an update on the identification of the airplayer.

I have found a radio which has a very similar console case, knobs and radio including layout of both top and bottom of chassis
Only difference is, it has a square dial instead of a round one so maybe a before or after model

I will add some photos of what I found.

The radio appears to be airplayer / aristone 170 and were sold by Myers as a house brand

It is listed in the radio museum.

Unfortunately I have not yet found the schematics for the radio.

The radio appears to be airplayer / aristone 170 and were sold by Myers as a house brand
It is listed in the radio museum.

Yes, as I have already posted in #16 above; further commented on in post #18.

I get the funny feeling that this is a customised up market set, based on a Breville 107 series and it has an added set of gangs for the added short wave band.

SW and BC antenna coils having separate gangs.

Well, I am closer to identifying the airplayer radio, I have uploaded some images.

it appears to be a airplayer/aristone which appears to have been sold by Myers emporium as a house brand.

The images I found show the console and knobs are identical to the one I have, only difference is the dial is square and mine is round, this could mean its a before of after model.

The radio chassis is also an identical layout, looking from the top and bottom of the chassis.

Although the serial number is different it is stamped in the same place and is same configuration.

So I am happy about finding this new information, how ever still no luck with schematics, maybe their gone forever.

Sorry all, I double posted because I could not see my first post.

Gtc thanks for pointing that out. I missed a lot of posts because I didn't realise there were 2 pages, I'm still fumbling and learning to use the forum .im embarrassed because you all put so much effort in helping.