I'm thinking of building a Timber shed in the spring Your Thoughts ??

I'm no Builder!  I've built rough old sheds in my life before and also Huge Lightboxes which are a shed with white walls and a translucent Roof which was designed for shadowless lighting.But this time I want a build just a Timber shed about 3M X 5m with one door and a Timber floor off the ground on blocks and on the cheap!,,,, Oh with a Pitch Roof at this stage.
 I'm thinking of building the Frame with H3 and cladding it with Rough sawn Pine Running Vertical like fence palings but 2.4 m  and overlapping of course.
I note they do it this way in America but here ?????Here they seem to always Run it Horizontal, I don't know why?I want to build it out of timber rather than buy a Tin shed due to condensation issues, Plus I like wood ..I would like to hear your thoughts,I'm sure some of you guys have built sheds 
Pete

A lot of houses once had shiplapped walls and the timbers below the chair rail were vertical. These timbers were typically Australian red cedar, which is hard to come by in the sizes it was sawn in back in the day. Some houses even had timber ceilings with matching timber cornices, again, all in red cedar and coated with Danish oil.

Outside though, timbers run horizontally for one simple reason - it is less prone to water ingress that way. If you really want the timbers vertical, sarking should be installed before the timber goes on the frame.

I will have to Read up on Sarking Brad ,,I know what it is , But ive never used it .....pete

Weather boards are best horizontal. They were horizontal on the old house & painted & they were still serviceable after 70years & the outdoor dunny is well over 100.

Sarking one tacks to the outside of the frame before the boards. There is another stuff that is bubbly & better insulation. My warning there is that I would mesh the roof first to stop it sagging or consider a ceiling & batts otherwise.

This Studio / workshop is metal with foam spray on insulation no windows & a solid insulated door. At the moment is holding 15 degrees with a 500 watt fan heater. Size 14ft wide 30ft long 8ft high with insulated (inside flat metal roof). 100 year old shed has also had the roof sprayed with insulation gabled roof. with chaff doors.

Driving rain will be an issue with vertical especially if it warps. Make sure you seal the end grain as that's where most of the moisture problems originate from.

Make sure that you strap the rafters to the frame or the roof may wander off in the wind. House has wooden trusses but the used metal battens. They should be strapped to the rafters. In the town you may need a permit.

Marc

Thanks Marc ,
This shed is for all my Spray Gear and junk , Mostly if I'm working on something I do it out side for the light and Air .

Pete

Council regulations may be an issue.
Talk to the engineer at your local council first.
They can be very helpful.
Before I built a quite large veranda at the back of my house I spoke to the council building engineer first.
I'm glad I did because he put me straight on quite a few issues.

Forgot, the radio workshop / studio / Farm office is insulated walls and ceiling. This I have seen an Irish architect do with containers.

By putting in the studs and then spraying it with the foam, this actually stops the walls from sweating in cold weather & this has been one of the corrosion problems with containers and that solves it. Neither sheds 1 or 3 have metal rooves that sweat.

House is insulated floor walls & ceiling . There is Sarking (https://pricewiseinsulation.com.au/product/sisalation-foil-roof-sarking) between the bricks & wall frames.

Beware of insulation and electrical wiring: It can downrate the wiring. Due to location, some lights are mounted on cement sheet so a failure cannot burn the beam.

Heated to 16 degrees the house will lose about one degree per hour, with an outside temp below 5 degrees.

Love the term "building it in the Spring" outside the city where I am, that would imply floats & looking like a house boat.

Marc

" building in the spring"
Well there are reasons for that.
The days are shorter now and I have to finish the inside of the house off first
I was born in the city in Ryde.
But in my childhood I lived in the country and in the snow and I also lived in the inner city of Sydney so I'm bit of a mixture of city and country person.
I like both ,but I like to live in the country and only visit the city .....too hard for me to live in the city..

Pete

My latest thoughts:

Use a container, one of the long ones.
Make footings out of concrete blocks so it's level with the carport floor.
Put a sloping roof on it, something like that of the carport, with insulation in it. Some gang-nail trusses should work well.
Use brick cladding on the sides to match the house, keep the neighbours and the council inspector happy and to improve the insulation.
Back it onto the carport and fit a roller door at that end.
2nd hand windows at the other end.

Hi Ian ,, Yes I have thought about a container too,, I can get them a bit cheaper in Albury . The green fence to the yard can open up to put a container in , I have lots of room here . The trouble with building a shed is "time" I have so many Hats I'm wearing I cant keep up.
But if I bought a Container the works load is far less ..... If you hear a Grinding noise, That's just me thinking !!

Pete

Containers come in three sizes generally. 10 foot, 20 foot (the most common size) and 40 foot, which are the long ones on the back trailer of a B-double truck. Depending on condition and size, a container generally sell for between $1,000 and $5,000. The advantages with a good one is that they are waterproof and hard to break in to. The down size is that they get stinking hot in summer and will eventually rust though the latter won't happen straight away and providing it is not placed directly on the ground.

Like any building in the bush, if left open, the brownsnakes will love you for it.

Haha , actually Brad ,when I lived in Sydney I was on the bush and I mean on it! The bush started about 30 feet from my back door.
Lots snakes in my yard and many other types of wild life.
You may remember the day I was working on a Radiogram cabinet an a over 5 foot goanna walked through my garage.
Snakes were common sights, I don't mind snakes too much ,it was the funnel web spider s that were the real problem.They would get in the house,the shed... everywhere.
Since I've been in Albury I've not seen a snake yet . Although I can see the bush from my house
Shipping containers are cheap around here due to shipping companies.
A shipping container is worth thinking about as it's fast! Very lockable.
I have also looked into buying one of those large garden workshop garden sheds,but honestly they are not really lockable and they seem flimsy to me and mounting anything on the walls would be a right pain.
So I think I'm down to two choices,build a solid shed or buy a container.

Pete

An idea I've seen in caravan parks on older vans with leaking roofs may go well here to keep a container cool - install a light frame over the top of the container and put a colourbond or zinc iron roof on top, about a foot above the top of the container, providing it is affordable, it would give you a way of harvesting more water plus the air gap will keep the inside of the container cooler due to the direct sunlight being kept off the top of it.

This is interesting to Brad if anyone is planning.
New South Wales

For NSW, here are the ways that your shed can be exempt from needing council approval (in other words, if these statements apply to your shed, you don’t need a permit!):

• Your shed is the only detached structure in the backyard
• Your shed is not a shipping container (no worries, here, EasyShed doesn’t sell shipping containers!)
• Your shed is no larger than 20 square metres if you live in a residential area
• If you live in a rural area (RU1, RU2, RU3, RU4 or RU5), your shed is no larger than 50 square metres
• Your shed is at least 900mm away from each boundary
• If your shed is raised off of the ground - lofted, for instance, - it is less than 3 metres from the ground
• Your shed doesn’t interfere with the fire safety of other buildings - it’s not blocking entrances, for instance
• Your shed isn’t made of fire-prone materials if you live in a fire-prone area
• Your shed is constructed of low-reflective material in residential areas
• The water runoff from your shed doesn’t have a negative impact on your neighbour’s property
If there was even one of these stipulations that you doesn’t describe your shed, you’ll have to start the process of getting council approval.

The great thing with containers is being heavy metal you can weld to them. Rural Containers in Albury do, do a lot of customising & converting They may even do pre fab roofing for them? They will not rust inside (as before) if you insulate the walls. Albeit the floors are treated marine ply I normally saturate it with Linseed oil.

The 20 footer & one 40 footer here have been fitted with rotary vents the 40 footer needs a second one. They have all been put in a place where it can get very wet with their doors at the dry end. I have cut vent holes, with appropriate flywire & frame into the doors and the rotary vents on them the house & this workshop have screens as well to stop both bugs & fire embers. The latter may be thought stupid but where there is a bushfire attack level (BAL) that's regulations and I have noted that under certain wind conditions the airflow can reverse: That's why.

In view of location, location, location, setting them on the ground is insanity and I and the survey equipment etc. need to go jack up one up the road where they did that?? The rabbits are tunnelling under it. With a 20 footer at a mates place, we actually drilled down to the bedrock layer (soft hill scree & soil) and then boxed the holes to level & poured concrete into them for footings. Then sat the container on them. Shimmed one as it was 2mm low (concretes like that). All of mine and that one are around 4" +/- off the unlevel ground keeping the bottoms dry and enabling Casserole & Stew to be dealt with swiftly.

We just re-roofed & replaced a wall in part of a 3 car & one tractor shed in the Summer & Autumn.