AM Radio Circuit Diagram using currently available parts
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Location: Stanmore, NSW
Member since 6 July 2014
Member #: 1599
Postcount: 29
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Hi Guy's,
Does anyone have a diagram of an AM Radio that uses tubes that are easily available? maybe a 4 or 5 valve and dare I say it a solid state rectifier?
Steve
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Location: Oradell, US
Member since 2 April 2010
Member #: 643
Postcount: 833
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Location: Stanmore, NSW
Member since 6 July 2014
Member #: 1599
Postcount: 29
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Thanks Wa2ise,
Where can you get hold of stuff like the oscillator coils etc for a build like this?
Steve
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Location: Central Coast, NSW
Member since 18 April 2014
Member #: 1554
Postcount: 215
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Hi Steve
No Idea on IF coils lest wise in Oz, Best source is junked radios I suppose and you can repair them if the coil its self isn't kaput
EDIT 2The linked PDF Circuit would be the go to play around with the idea Steve
I didnt realise that wasn't that radios circuit My Apologies Wa2ise (I just zeroed in on the Circuits lack of transformer)
EDIT I just notice something I am not now Sure if I can call it a Live Chassis per say... But I'll let my comment stand for the moment As Is
(The only was this could be considered safe or safer is if the mains in no way contacted the Chassis..and any caps between the circuit and Chassis were mains certified safety caps)
I'll check this later.... very late now......I have and the links may best explain it
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Edit 3 Just on what I am talking about in the post a few links say it far better then me ...its just a point for beginners to watch out for thats all (of which I thought you were one Steve but seems not the case if you been building valve amps)
thought bear in mind in Ref to US power system, same basically still applies, thought we have (for the most part that I know of) always use a polarized plug top but as Marc points out below a lot of the time these old radios were feed from light sockets which weren't with *connection polarized or even earthed in the early days
(* meaning they could go in either way like a light bulb, even if a standard was followed, which probably would really be only that the Active be switched to the Lt fitting in those days...but thats getting into the realms of lic electricians not really for this forum)
most all device works perfectly well with Active Neutral transposition and that is what make them so dangerous
(also US colour coding can easily be mistaken for a neutral wire here Black as neutral or white as a switched Active...were as US wiring black=Active white=Neutral, thought that applies more so to electrical wiring but does carry over to device mains wiring)
Anyway Links
http://www.antiqueradio.org/safety.htm
http://www.geojohn.org/Radios/MyRadios/Safety.html
Another 2 links that maybe an interesting read, thought I haven't read them all fully yet..and as I said its a worth studying the circuit, as a lot applies to other radios and circuits
http://www.angelfire.com/electronic/funwithtubes/AA5-1.html
http://www.wa2ise.com/radios/12ba7.html
Thought the opinions are those of the Author and I am not educated enough on valve radio to offer advice for or against..any idea put forward
Just use your own grey matter and research or even post to draw your own conclusions
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Original post (comments in regard to the Schematic only)
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On that Set above Id highly recommend you NOT attempt something like that
That whats known as a LIVE Chassis job (or potentially)...these days if not illegal defiantly frowned upon though its one very common Radio I believe
if you were to attempt something like that you could get a 240 to 120 Volt step down transformer
I mean one that * ISOLATES you from our 240 Mains but the thing is still a death trap
(* has 2 separate windings not an Auto step down transformer...)
For any set like this Id advise (if not legally required) a 1:1 transformer, if it was an OZ radio (240/240...ok we are now suppose to be 230Vac...I measure here 245 Vac last night)
whats actually happening there is Direct Rectification of the Mains Voltage...this was done by manufacturers to save cost on transformers and make things cheaper but the down side... its dangerous
In The US there power system is less voltage then ours (and people assumed safer, its not) and unlike now where they have finally woken up to the Fact Active & Neutral should be on a polarized plug and they should earth things in the bad old days that wasn't the case.(and you had a lot of people electroplated )
Not that the DC voltages in any Valve equipment wont kill you and always be aware that you are playing with a red belly black snake...if you want to stay alive...one hand in pocket at all times
always make a serious point to make sure its disconnected and the power caps are discharged before sticking your hand in there to do anything while trouble shooting
You just dont want to up the ante By having mains potential in there as well by having the switch in the neutral side and the chassis running HOT at 120 Vac
This still could be the Case with Oz sets but most all of ours do use a beefy transformer so it will only be the primary side that might still be alive, That to me is risky enough
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its probably a good circuit to delve into in theory and you will find heaps of info on them to be sure
it just something personally I wouldn't want to cut my teeth on
The US is probably a place you may find IF cans but I dont know ...it would be nice to know if someone actually makes them...but it wont be any manufacture of the present day I dont think (or know of anyway)
you can get power transformers and output transformers (at expensive prices here) but other things
Ebay, used or if your lucky unused is probably your best bet
But others here may know of sources and chime in to help....
It would be nice to have source of parts to roll your own for sure Agree
Also you might want to look at the later circuits that use thing like 6AN7 etc they will probably be more plentiful
later valves I mean not the Octals..still there a few of them around too (also more junk with the later sets Id imagine)
Anyway mate not much help just some warnings and hows life in Dirty old Stanmore....all around the inner city was my old stomping ground...many years ago ...but its all changed drastically since I was there...
Cheers mate 
PS there's still a lot of valves around but no one makes radio valves anymore...there are people that can supply without having to jump on to Ebay Auctions..in fact quite a few world wide
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Location: Stanmore, NSW
Member since 6 July 2014
Member #: 1599
Postcount: 29
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Thanks DJ Oz,
Yes live chassis is a dodgy thing to be sure. I did find this one: http://ad7zj.net/kd7lmo/ground_am_tube_radio_hardware.html. Although I looks like it's not really sorted. I do have some Nixie tubes though!
What I wanted was a circuit using maybe Hammond transformers for the mains and maybe the output and (all available from Evatco) using valves that are available for guitar amps for the audio circuit, not sure what I could use for the IF stage etc and as I mentioned the oscillator coils.
Stanmore is going fine. Their building too many home units though. Cramming in as many as they can on tiny blocks.
Steve
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Location: Oradell, US
Member since 2 April 2010
Member #: 643
Postcount: 833
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Hot chassis radios, in the later years of production, were installed in plastic or wooden cabinets, with plastic knobs designed to not be removable. Idea being that the radio circuits are completely isolated from the user. Cold chassis sets still have some hot wiring inside anyway. Thus you still need the cabinet.
PC power supplies are partially "hot chassis" (the primary side rectifier and switching transistor).
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Location: Wangaratta, VIC
Member since 21 February 2009
Member #: 438
Postcount: 5492
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The circuit posted is a reminder that there are instruments, with transformers that have managed to slip into this country with metal cases,wired in a similar manner to the one posted. which actually (the way it is drawn) suggests its a later type with the mains "floating".
These and the metal case are not intrinsically safe as they have capacitors going from mains to the metal case, chassis, or both. Rarely are the capacitors rated, or "approved" for use on the mains & as most of us know paper caps leak and can fail short.
The "X" type "approved type that are normally plastered with symbols like UL are designed to fail open an have high punch through voltages and normally have an AC rating not DC on them.
The metal cased instruments with transformers I normally ground, by getting rid of the two wire cable & grounding the cabinet. One great danger, as pointed out with "hot chasses" is that there was no guarantee that either the plug or socket was wired to any convention (as we have) and many two pin plugs, especially 110V ones, and don't forged many radios here were on lighting bayonets, could be inverted and you never knew where Active (Line) was lurking. This meant that the cap, resistor & wire put mains voltage onto the chassis.
The Transformer valve equipment needs to be understood, especially Professional audio. I have a Philips Line amp irrespective of what is shunts out, 100V line. This particular one has variants with two, to six, 6CM5's in Push Pull, massive transformers, and around 100mA per valve and the plate on top.
Not the sort of thing for a novice to be playing with.
Marc
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Location: Central Coast, NSW
Member since 18 April 2014
Member #: 1554
Postcount: 215
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Location: Wangaratta, VIC
Member since 21 February 2009
Member #: 438
Postcount: 5492
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Nobody much uses old TV tubes & you can normally get these by the bucket load. 6BL8 was a universal widget valve that was used all over the place. It is actually a frequency converter that can go to several hundred MHz. So several could be used all the way to the output where valves like 6BM8 can be used.
There are a few of these in an old 2.5 MHzHeathkit CRO I have. Where a new SS one dies at just over its 10MHz. The valve one just looses resolution as it continues well out of the spec. as the valves can handle it.
Marc
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Location: Stanmore, NSW
Member since 6 July 2014
Member #: 1599
Postcount: 29
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Hi DJOz,
I know the book shop, it's still there if that's the one.
Have a look at this Variable cap. Does it have enough range?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/High-Voltage-Air-Variable-Capacitors-22-360pF-1KV-Amplifier-Tuner-REPAIR-DIY-/151216034189.
I used to build guitar amps. Mostly for Bass guitar. Copies of the Hiwatt 100. These are pretty simple. no tuning stage!! I play the bass but I use a amp that it solid state ;) the valve jobs are way too heavy to cart around. Got interested in radio when the Mrs got me a Kriesler for a wedding anniversary so she can't say too much about all the old radio's.......it's her fault!!
Steve
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Location: Blue Mountains, NSW
Member since 10 March 2013
Member #: 1312
Postcount: 401
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Got interested in radio when the Mrs got me a Kriesler for a wedding anniversary so she can't say too much about all the old radio's.......it's her fault!!
You lucky, lucky man. Don't lose that one, she's a keeper!
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Location: Central Coast, NSW
Member since 18 April 2014
Member #: 1554
Postcount: 215
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Location: Stanmore, NSW
Member since 6 July 2014
Member #: 1599
Postcount: 29
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Hi Guys, thanks for the links etc. I think I'll have a go at building the Aussie 3. Looks OK. Not sure about getting some of the parts but I'm looking into it.
Steve
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Location: Central Coast, NSW
Member since 18 April 2014
Member #: 1554
Postcount: 215
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Hi Steve
Haven't actually looked at it yet but finding heaps of stuff on building you own on YT.
There is a Video By All American five that gives a running description of a variation of the Circuit posted... That maybe interesting in understanding it, also the general Idea
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zknp0FOkPXU.
(oh he keeps says 455 Hz he means kHz)
but with radio there more then one way to do things too and different types of receivers.
Anyway find some junked sets and build your own frankien~radio 
Cheers 
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