The thing with a stereo, is that if both amps are dead the probability of both being faulty is low. That does not stop the RF section, or one amp being the culprit That can be determined by cutting off their B+ supply.

If there are no lights there is probably no power and if no heaters as well. Globe holders do go short, some when there is a globe missing.

Photo uploaded to Post 33. I apologise for the time it took to get this uploaded.

I have seen such thin single wire across two terminals before.
If my memory serves me correctly they were employed as a fusible link.
And clearly, in the picture the wire seems to be melted.

The hot resistor appears to have affected the mains lead below it.

Any resistor getting hot & touching the softer plastic, will invariably melt it. I need to go back to the circuit diagram & I think you need to as well to trace all of the "B" circuit (markers pens are good) and look for mis wires & electrolytic caps that are backwards, underrated, or shorted.

Logical progression has reached the point where you stop: reset, and go back to step one and sort out which branch of the power supply is wrong, or overloading. It is useful to print the wiring diagram, or circuit then use a marker to trace all legs of the B+ rail.

I have sent Brad a schematic altered to show a way of tracing the HT rails of "B". The switch on "Gram" shuts off the radio section power as I suspected. So there should not be HT issues with it off. The trap with killing both amps is that you cannot with tubes in place, disconnect both the HT1 and HT2 individually on either channel.

Should you remove the plate voltage and not the screen voltage: The Screen becomes the plate. The screen cannot handle plate current and you risk destroying the tube.

R25 is a "Back Bias" resistor and all cathode current will normally passes through it. If it burns there is a short, or overload. You do not heavy it up; you replace it as per parts list wattage. Otherwise you may need a new rectifier, or transformer.

The voltage across it (-7.5V chassis positive) is the grid bias for the output tubes.

Kriesler 11-98 Circuit Diagram

Document uploaded to Post 51.

Forgot to mention. the back bias resistor is a diagnostic. If that voltage is substantially wrong: Things are not right.

As I fix: Years ago I built the electrolytic cap reformer by Rodney Champness onto the bench PSU. Now this is a wonderful device for doing what it was designed not to do. One of those things is actually to use it, with a suitable resistor, as a power supply to ping in place dud "B" caps in circuit.

Now by eliminating the draw of any voltage dividers common in older sets and on screens. Removing the tubes, you can power the "B" with the reformer (or another PSU). There should only be the draw of the Filter caps. Generalisation: Current in microamps = 0.01 ( capacitance in Microfarads by Voltage applied). The reformer noted steps from 25 to 400 Volts light loaded (LR8 will lock up).

By doing this for electrolytic caps you can gradually step the voltage up and monitor the voltage across the 1K resistor (1V=1mA). As you step up the voltage to the rated voltage. That should be the only current draw. On that basis, there should be no other current draw; should this not be the case and the voltage does not hold, you can ping which one of the three loading points (HT1, 2, 3,) is feeding a short before yo even get to the higher volts, where the flashovers & leaking caps will tend to be mere obvious.

Something to think about.

Hey all,
Well going over everything, replaced a dodgy 6n8 and now everything is working fine. everything but the stereo. I am getting little oto no sound from a record. Radio is working perfectly. Picks up the local ABC, (our only AM station) great.
So no sound from the stereo.
What controls the amplifier?
Thanks all

What controls the amplifier?

The signal chain for the record player is: stylus > cartridge> preamplifier > amplifier > speakers.

Included in that chain is the associated wiring, plugs, sockets, connectors and the radio/phono switch.

Thanks,
It has a new cartridge and stylus, sound from the radio is ok.
Would the earphone jack affect the sound?
What part is the pre amp and amp?
thanks

Rivets get drilled out. Go for a ceramic type as they handle heat better.

I will not drill, hammer, or pop rivet a chassis with the entire compliment of tubes in situ. May have to go 3mm metal threads (Jaycar, etc.)

Looking at that circuit that Radio/Gram switch could be the problem with dirty switch contacts feeding the output from the new cartridge into the dual volume controls.

There are also 2 Jacks the marked J1 & J2 which also could be the problem with crappy contacts...what are J1 & J2 actually for???? and is the wiring intact to and from each jack??

Maybe the jacks are there to inject a stereo mic or other input from a tape player.

There is nothing much in that circuit to suss out given that the radio works fine as you say but the record player does not.

Should be easy to sort.

I never even considered those jacks. They are for plugging in an external source. The ipod sounds great through the stereo.
So I plugged my phone in and bang music!!!
So I now have to determine how it is stopping the music. Most likely something worn out or stuck.
Thanks

The normalising contacts in the jacks connect the pickup? Common for oxidation to set in.

The one I'm working on right now had that problem. Someone years ago spilled a drink over them!