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 Rusted Chassis
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 Return to top of page · Post #: 1 · Written at 5:12:18 PM on 31 January 2024.
Bowler's Gravatar
 Location: Bongaree, QLD
 Member since 26 October 2018
 Member #: 2308
 Postcount: 81

Good Evening All, I have a 1936 radio chassis which is very rusty, is there any type of rust remover suitable for this purpose. Bowler


 
 Return to top of page · Post #: 2 · Written at 7:25:28 PM on 31 January 2024.
Ian Robertson's Gravatar
 Location: Belrose, NSW
 Member since 31 December 2015
 Member #: 1844
 Postcount: 2405

Rust removers are all very corrosive and most also attack aluminium. You really can't use them on a populated chassis

What I've done in such cases is to take lots of pictures and strip everything out of the chassis.
If you are lucky the sockets can be un-rivetted from the chassis and removed from the underside, along with all the wiring.

If it's a valuable (desirable) model, you can take it to an electroplater who will subject it to an acid bath and then zinc plate it. I did this with a couple of Airzone Radiostars.

Otherwise you can wire brush it and paint it using a rattle can.


 
 Return to top of page · Post #: 3 · Written at 10:27:53 AM on 1 February 2024.
Marcc's avatar
 Location: Wangaratta, VIC
 Member since 21 February 2009
 Member #: 438
 Postcount: 5303

Photo may be helpful? If it is really bad and you have to strip the chassis, one can get seriously aggressive. If there are large rust pits, they need to be cleaned out as paint will not stop the corrosion.

Then you resort to Molasses or Phosphoric acid. Big holes / pits, can be dealt with using either automotive body filler or solder (lead wiping). Tractors fuel tank has been lead wiped, seriously effective.

Marc


 
 Return to top of page · Post #: 4 · Written at 1:47:12 PM on 1 February 2024.
GTC's avatar
 GTC
 Location: Sydney, NSW
 Member since 28 January 2011
 Member #: 823
 Postcount: 6720

Then you resort to Molasses

Make that diluted molasses -- about 1:10 -- and gentle heat will quicken the process. (Be warned that it stinks, so don't do it under your neighbour's window.)


 
 Return to top of page · Post #: 5 · Written at 6:09:11 PM on 1 February 2024.
Redxm's avatar
 Location: Tamworth, NSW
 Member since 6 April 2012
 Member #: 1126
 Postcount: 466

If you want a commercial solution, Fertan rust converter is great. Turns rust into ferric tannate

You can buy it at Autobarn.


 
 Return to top of page · Post #: 6 · Written at 9:17:12 PM on 1 February 2024.
Marcc's avatar
 Location: Wangaratta, VIC
 Member since 21 February 2009
 Member #: 438
 Postcount: 5303

Amusing are those of ignorance who complain about the Fox holes left in the remaining metal after treatment. The reality check is that the Fox hole was corroded metal. If you do not get it out, you are wasting you time.

The chassis will look a whole lot better treated & sanded. If you use solder 50/50 is preferable. Acquired some of that somewhere in resin cored. Very handy a few days ago when I realised the radiators top tank's (real metal (1958) not plastic) had separated from the LH bracket. That did not require the PIB removal of the radiator.


 
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