I have worked out that the escutcheon and or dial in this set was produced in 1932/33 . Maybe there were parts left over and used in 1940 but this at least makes it a very early version.

It may be an idea to Reverse engineer it. That's why I bought an AutoCAD decades ago. Its tedious but relatively simple. I use the AutoCAD to produce a layout, with the tubes & cans transformers where they appear on the chassis Tube elements & pin numbers are included then you play join the dots.

That will then allow the production of a circuit complete with wiring errors to be fixed later.

That by the tube count looks awfully like a reflexed set. Popular in the forties when tubes were scarce.

Do note that the tripod is not dead and there is such a thing as too close and cropping. Auto focus is not your friend and can ruin depth of field. Shut it off, when filming the pan and focus manually on something midway between chassis top & lower edge.

Ok we have worked out where the short is. I have sent photos to Brad and one has a white mark where the short is. Would you believe this radio actually works. We had hash while testing it. All filements where working . I just couldn't see some.
Its actually a TRF and dates from the early 30s.

Carl: Thanks for the photos: Don't power it. It is my belief that who ever wired in the mains cable has wired the jump wire from the shield wire onto possibly a live terminal and not a centre tap going to ground.

That is likely what fried the rectifier.

email sent

Marc

Oh, it works? Well done.

Was it working with the 83V, or did you have to replace it?

Looking forward to the photo(s).

Item 1: In view of the revelations, I would now suspect that the mains grounding strap is on the 6V heater winding. Not desirable.

I cannot see it being TRF when 6K8 is a pentagrid with a separate triode exciter for an oscillator. I think you will find that the tin can with a dented top is an IF can around 175kHz or greater and the 2nd detector 1st IF is actually reflexed; which means that the 1st AF detector is also amplifying RF, if its reflexed

Well a big thank you to Marcc ( yes I do listen ) for his input as it was his input that solved the biggest problem and my old mate Ray Pfister. Marcc spotted a error in the previous repairers efforts and I followed his advice and saved the transformer! Then all I needed to do was pull the socket for the 6B7s apart and clean and adjust the contacts plus clean the pins and off it goes. Loud and clear.

Robert it did work with the 83V and the 6B7s only needed a good scrub of its pins and sockets and it burst into life after recapping.

Now the rule here is that it ain't broke: Don't try & fix it.

If the speaker needs replacing I would be be cautious, as we really do not know if we can get one with the correct ohmage bobbin. The big wire wound dropping resistor replacing the field bobbin is a clue.

Where did those white flakes come from in the first photos? A lot of sets had an asbestos panel in the top inside the cabinet. If it has one clean it wearing a respirator and paint it with something like slightly diluted PVA glue so as it soaks into it and binds it.

After making repairs as necessary, I will normally paint the internal dry wood with Linseed oil, and its also all that is required with some, for wiping it down to make it look better, but original without restoration.

Marcc There is no sign of asbestos inside the cabinet it probably had a bit of dust there. The cabinet is being sent of to a friend to be finished off . I have a suitable speaker coming from John Mcilwaine. this set will look the goods. The speaker I have it hooked upto is a little 3 inch Model 3 rola speaker. It actually sounded great.
Marcc I just looked at the photo and those white bits were flakes of paint.

Paint we can handle. Acrylic paint cant handle Metho, nor can the original Nitrocellulose finish.

I had a HMV set years ago, the customer wanted the wooden cabinet sorted. The sort of thing I did not do. There was a guy locally that was commercially restoring & you, at that time could get & he was using the Nitro cellulose finish.

That stuff is brilliant as it will meld into the previous layer. Customer loved it so that's all that matters.

The next thing I'm going to do is replace the last 8μF electro , replace the cord and anchor it properly. Clean and polish the chassis and repair the 83V ( glass is loose ). I just found out the 6B7S can be replaced by a 6B8 ( is that right!) .
I want to anchor the cord with the device that clips into the hole ( not a gland ) does any one know what its called ?

I just found out the 6B7S can be replaced by a 6B8 ( is that right!) .

Er, no, not really.

Equivalences per specifications:
6B7 == 6B8G
6B7S == 6G8G

However, the bases are different - the 6B8G/6G8G has an octal base.

The differences between 6B8 and 6G8 are quite minor, one can replace the other safely (they are pin-compatible).

So, if you want to change the base, go ahead.

Robbert its a good thing I dont need to replace the 6B7S.

I have sent photos to Brad

What happened to them?