I am looking for some I.F cans for a little philips I am doing up. They are the ones with the screw adjusters on top. They are square sided and oblong tops.
Does anyone here have any please.

Its the Model 166. Are these repairable at all.

Some are repairable, some aren't. They are not intended to be repaired though. The only way to find out is to remove it from the set, then remove the metal can (it slides up if you're lucky). Inside, you might see the usual coils and wires, but if you're unlucky you'll see a solid resin block instead.

You need to be really careful though, one heavy-handed shove can break the black main support at the bottom, as I say they are not really meant to be repaired.

The usual problem with them is either the wires break at the bottom, or the connections short to the can. These IFTs work well, but they are not the greatest design.

The radio actually works but its very low volume. A tech friend told me one of the cans is faulty.

One of the biggest causes of "deaf" sets is alignment. You should be able to tell if the coils are open and just servicing the radio can cause wire breaks. It is never unusual for the monkeys to meddle with every adjustment possible in a futile attempt to get it going.

My approach with a radio is to run an IF alignment early to ensure its working. If the IF does not adjust then there is an issue.

It is quite normal to get a weak signal to the det first AF if the IF is not working and similar with a dead oscillator, but the difference is that a set will get a strong station only not tune.

Yes, if the coils conduct there's no need to open them. First thing to check, since getting them out & open is a right royal pain.

And check that none of the under-chassis connections are shorting, the close spacing makes that quite possible.

After that, then it's just normal fault-finding and alignment, as Marcc said.

Sometimes the metal tag on the bottom can snap off the base and it isn't obvious, that's one good reason to check for continuity.

Circuit: https://www.kevinchant.com/uploads/7/1/0/8/7108231/166.pdf

The above has voltages on it (sorta). Pentagrids for one, do not like low volts and that gives poor modulation and manifests as low volume. It is therefore pertinent to ensure that voltages are within 20% of those quoted. That's the first thing to check: Voltages.

I have had a similar issue in the past with one of these sets. if the transformer is faulty a replacement will be the only option. These are pretty much sealed up and unrepairable.

I was given another chassis this weekend with those I.F cans . Its a identical chassis. I might actually see if it works and transpose all the good bits from the other chassis.
If its no good then I will perform a bit of surgery.

The slug adjustable coils with square sides are not usually a hassle. It is however, very important not to get the can & contents disoriented & wires put back on the wrong pins do mark everything. Paint markers are good. Dismantled one on a "Cadet M5" Monday as the entire length of the 6G6's fly lead was on the outside not some inside.

Wire breaks by electrolytic corrosion are not uncommon. If that's it spray with circuit board lacquer, or heavily paint the node to stop it.

Well as suspected ( through a isolation transformer, a variac and dimbulb tester ) I did some minor repairs and attached a speaker I powered it up and this parts chassis works perfectly. I just need to clean it up and do a full recap and off it goes back to its owner.

Don't forget the IF; Once you have changed parts even an RF tube in the thing; most of the manufacturers recommend realignment.

Alignment is the principal cause of "Deaf" sets.

On Christmas day I decided to replace all the paper caps with no issues at all. I just need to nut out the two electros and should be sweet. The dial string looks diabolical though lol.

The dial string looks diabolical though

With Philips, that almost goes without saying.

In Silicon Chip there was once a short series of articles on the look-alike receivers made by Philips, usually featuring a European set and an Australian one in identical cabinets. The theme was usually the same, with the Australian set having much simpler circuitry with fewer components but the same complex dialglass/string arrangement which was usually overly mystifying.

If something can be built as complex as possible with little or no improvement in the result, a European will usually find the way to do it.

What model is it? Philips even back to an early one here, were big on "back bias" 132L being another here with it and by no means, is it brand specific.

If it has 5Y3, or anything behaving like one, 600V caps. There are a couple of variations on the theme, where the first filter cap is on the CT second one to ground and another where both are on the CT.

Then from CT to ground, across the back bias resistance, or resistances; To ground there may be an NP cap of 0.1mfd, or a 25μF electrolytic around 40V, positive to chassis, negative to the centre tap.

All electrolytics should be replaced. They all die the same way.