Welcome to Australia's only Vintage Radio and Television discussion forums. You are not logged in. Please log in below, apply for an account or retrieve your password.
Australian Vintage Radio Forums
  Home  ·  About Us  ·  Discussion Forums  ·  Glossary  ·  Outside Links  ·  Policies  ·  Services Directory  ·  Safety Warnings  ·  Tutorials

Tech Talk

Forum home - Go back to Tech talk

 Replacement Vertical Output Transformer needed
« Back · 1 · 2 · 3 · 4 · 5 · 6 · Next »
 Return to top of page · Post #: 61 · Written at 7:03:57 PM on 21 January 2022.
Ian Robertson's Gravatar
 Location: Belrose, NSW
 Member since 31 December 2015
 Member #: 1844
 Postcount: 2445

Will I pull the tranny out of my Astor parts chassis?


 
 Return to top of page · Post #: 62 · Written at 7:12:15 PM on 21 January 2022.
Scotty's Gravatar
 Location: Melbourne, VIC
 Member since 26 December 2010
 Member #: 794
 Postcount: 387

Prob not a bad idea Ian, it looks like sourcing the correct STC transformer is very unlikely.
Scott


 
 Return to top of page · Post #: 63 · Written at 9:11:15 PM on 21 January 2022.
Fred Lever's Gravatar
 Location: Toongabbie, NSW
 Member since 19 November 2015
 Member #: 1828
 Postcount: 1300

Ian, that would be wonderful, its the only way for Scott to move forward.
Fred.


 
 Return to top of page · Post #: 64 · Written at 9:54:22 PM on 21 January 2022.
Scotty's Gravatar
 Location: Melbourne, VIC
 Member since 26 December 2010
 Member #: 794
 Postcount: 387

Thanks gents
I really appreciate the assistance from all of you. I’ll have to know how to modify the vertical output stage to accommodate the replacement tranny.
Cheers


 
 Return to top of page · Post #: 65 · Written at 12:46:08 PM on 23 January 2022.
Ian Robertson's Gravatar
 Location: Belrose, NSW
 Member since 31 December 2015
 Member #: 1844
 Postcount: 2445

When I pull the chassis out from the pile I'll also get the chassis number and send you a copy of the circuit.

It also has a good 23" 110 degree CRT btw. One of the naked variety, no bonded faceplate or mounting lugs.


 
 Return to top of page · Post #: 66 · Written at 8:08:09 AM on 24 January 2022.
Scotty's Gravatar
 Location: Melbourne, VIC
 Member since 26 December 2010
 Member #: 794
 Postcount: 387

Thanks Ian

That would be great.
I’ve spent considerable time on this TV and have to start focusing on other repairs
It will good to finally finish the STC off. The picture tube in it seems ok although brightness isn’t as good as I would have expected.
I imagine the CRT you have would be a different type so would not be compatible.

Cheers


 
 Return to top of page · Post #: 67 · Written at 8:31:43 PM on 25 January 2022.
Ian Robertson's Gravatar
 Location: Belrose, NSW
 Member since 31 December 2015
 Member #: 1844
 Postcount: 2445

Re the CRT, all you need to know is the diagonal size, mounting arrangements and deflection angle.

You STC is 23" with a separate safety glass? If so, the tube I have will fit.


 
 Return to top of page · Post #: 68 · Written at 10:28:51 PM on 25 January 2022.
Scotty's Gravatar
 Location: Melbourne, VIC
 Member since 26 December 2010
 Member #: 794
 Postcount: 387

Hi Ian
Yes it has a separate safety glass
Cheers
Scott


 
 Return to top of page · Post #: 69 · Written at 1:29:08 PM on 26 January 2022.
Ian Robertson's Gravatar
 Location: Belrose, NSW
 Member since 31 December 2015
 Member #: 1844
 Postcount: 2445

Oh one thing:

Some STCs of the period used a rare 114 degree 23" CRT (23WP4?) to reduce the cabinet front to back depth slightly. If, when it is fitted, the chassis is hard up against the tube bulb you might have one of those.

The Anodeon CRT I have is 110 degree.

I might get a chance to get into the garage today and retrieve the transformer from that chassis.


 
 Return to top of page · Post #: 70 · Written at 11:51:54 AM on 27 January 2022.
Scotty's Gravatar
 Location: Melbourne, VIC
 Member since 26 December 2010
 Member #: 794
 Postcount: 387

That’s Ian
I just checked and yes it’s the 23WP4.
Cheers
Scott


 
 Return to top of page · Post #: 71 · Written at 8:04:31 PM on 27 January 2022.
Ian Robertson's Gravatar
 Location: Belrose, NSW
 Member since 31 December 2015
 Member #: 1844
 Postcount: 2445

The 110 degree CRT will work, if it can afford to be 25mm "fatter", i.e. setback of the bulb measured from the screen face to the base of the neck.
..
I just checked the datasheets.


 
 Return to top of page · Post #: 72 · Written at 8:54:36 PM on 27 January 2022.
Scotty's Gravatar
 Location: Melbourne, VIC
 Member since 26 December 2010
 Member #: 794
 Postcount: 387

Thanks Ian
I’m away for a week and will check it when I get back. I think there is room for the tube to be deeper but not sure about the fatter aspect. Will the same yoke be used? Or the one that’s on your tube.
Cheers
Scott


 
 Return to top of page · Post #: 73 · Written at 8:31:06 PM on 28 January 2022.
Ian Robertson's Gravatar
 Location: Belrose, NSW
 Member since 31 December 2015
 Member #: 1844
 Postcount: 2445

Same yoke, I doubt you will be able to tell the difference.

If you are fussy you could change the value of the yoke coupler cap, Kriesler used to use both tubes and they had a link to connect the extra cap for 110 degree tubes. The slightly different deflection angle calls for a different amount of S correction to the horizontal scan.

Nobody else bothered (or indeed noticed), the effect is subtle and only seen by critically examining a test pattern.


 
 Return to top of page · Post #: 74 · Written at 6:25:28 PM on 29 January 2022.
Scotty's Gravatar
 Location: Melbourne, VIC
 Member since 26 December 2010
 Member #: 794
 Postcount: 387

Makes sense
Could try it first and see. If it looks ok, just leave it


 
 Return to top of page · Post #: 75 · Written at 9:26:35 PM on 29 January 2022.
Ian Robertson's Gravatar
 Location: Belrose, NSW
 Member since 31 December 2015
 Member #: 1844
 Postcount: 2445

OK, I pulled out the Astor chassis. It's a Series 2.

The transformer is actually a single tapped winding. It uses no feedback for linearity, just the old school adjustable cathode resistor. Very simple circuit which, as I recall, worked OK. It has some advantages in that interlace should be better than the STC because there is no path from the yoke crosstalk to the vertical oscillator.
.
Pentodes normally don't give as good linearity as triodes in this circuit but Astor seems to have been able to make it work. It must have been OK because they kept using the same circuit right up to the end of B&W.

There is a problem though.

Since your set uses video grid drive to the CRT, the vertical blanking is applied to the cathode. This means it's a positive pulse.

The Astor uses conventional CRT cathode drive so blanking goes to the grid. Hence it's a negative pulse.

We could try reversing the tap and the end of winding, applying B+ to the end instead of the tap. This has the disadvantage that it will result in a higher plate impedance reflected back to the 6BM8, which will affect the linearity. Probably within range of adjustment though. Pic will be upside-down, no problem, just reverse the yoke vertical connections.

So if I draw to a circuit, are you OK to implement it? It's pretty much just a matter of pulling out all the existing linearity circuitry and pots and replacing it with a 1k pot and series 390 ohm resistor in the cathode of the 6BM8 pentode. The height control works differently, it needs to be a 2 meg pot. Very simple, a 3.3 meg resistor from B+boost, then the pot, then the oscillator plate circuit.

How does that sound?

Oh I may possibly have to renege on the CRT offer. The wife has taken a liking to an Astor 3 in 1 that uses the same tube. It may well need a replacement...... Not definite yet though!


 
« Back · 1 · 2 · 3 · 4 · 5 · 6 · Next »
 You need to be a member to post comments on this forum.

Sign In

Username:
Password:
 Keep me logged in.
Do not tick box on a computer with public access.