There is scant detail on Reliance: About as bad as EMMCO. But from Arthur Courtney's research, it appears to be 1949. EF50 would not have been available utill after the war

Nit picking I will never use an electrolytic below 500V on a filament rectifier like that: Note 525 Surge volts on the old ones. That was the universal value & modern caps rarely display that info.

With the mains cable I do not like that method of clamping, I really would never do that. If it does get jerked (can happen) the wire is liable to be cut. I prefer a gland, which in many cases can be reversed so the long nose is inside. A Zip tie also helps to doubly ensure it cannot move.

There were a few that used EF50 and even fewer like Philips, that used an electrolytic cap across the back bias, so the chassis may not have been built by Reliance & plenty of that, like badge engineering went on

Marc

Wait till you see the next lot of photos I have sent. This radio has been dated as a 1946 model by a radio Historian.

Marcc

Can you explain what you mean by a gland? Or could you post a picture for me as I am learning all this and its a bit slow going at the moment .


Thanks buddy Cheers Carl.

Carl
search cable gland on ebay.
Ben

Ah well thanks Ben yeah they do look very good indeed.

Modern glands are good at holding the cable tight however they don't look right on vintage radios, even when installed in reverse.

The grommet and cable clamp shown in one of the pictures is quite adequate and legal. If the clamp of the correct size is selected then adequate clamping of the cable shouldn't be an issue, bearing in mind that vintage radios are seldom likely to be moved around much.

That said, if you decide to go with a gland they can be got at Jaycar or an electrical wholesaler.

The problem I see with the cable is in respect of it no longer being considered legal to tie an inductive knot in the cable, & as the wire is not held firmly, it will...... and I have seen it, twist, & that can and has cause / caused the power wires to break free.

With a console there is often room to take the power out the side panel. It also pays in some circumstances to leave the earth wire long. The logic behind that is based on it being the last to break if the cable is towed, giving more chance for the protection circuits to kill the circuit if the live wire hits the chassis.

Marc

I'm with Brad. If you clamp the 3-core cable tightly at a 90 degree angle to the entry hole, then you'll have a tough time getting it to twist or break free.

Yeah well I might start using the glands on my other projects. But I'm quite happy with the setup on my console.

Well guys the old girl has a new lease on life here it is in all its glory totally finished it looks and sounds so cool.

TA DAAAAAAAAAAAAA Now how's that for class guys. From next to no hope to this crowning glory.

Hey guys the next thing I'm going to do to this is add the connection for the tablet to the phono inputs any suggestions.

There was a suggestion in another thread of using a bluetooth.

Or you could go the more traditional route and use an impedance matching transformer.

I Dont think the impedence is a issue . I experimented by plugging my tablet directly into the back of my pilot mantle radio as it had a quarter inch jack already installed for phono input and I just happened to have a 3ml to quarter inch adaptor cable. The tablet instantly said playing headphones at high levels can cause hearing damage so it compensated . but the sound was awesome and pure.

Nice job.