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 Phillips model identification help
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 Return to top of page · Post #: 31 · Written at 6:39:26 PM on 25 August 2020.
Fred Lever's Gravatar
 Location: Toongabbie, NSW
 Member since 19 November 2015
 Member #: 1828
 Postcount: 1303

Hi JimB, if you tackle it keep us updated and we can help you where we can.
Keep going!
Cheers Fred.


 
 Return to top of page · Post #: 32 · Written at 8:14:55 PM on 25 August 2020.
Brad's avatar
 Administrator
 Location: Naremburn, NSW
 Member since 15 November 2005
 Member #: 1
 Postcount: 7382

Photo uploaded to Post 24.

Yes, all the black 'mud' capacitors plus that red Ducon electro would be replaced in a good restoration of that set.


‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾
A valve a day keeps the transistor away...

 
 Return to top of page · Post #: 33 · Written at 8:31:07 PM on 25 August 2020.
Robbbert's avatar
 Location: Hill Top, NSW
 Member since 18 September 2015
 Member #: 1801
 Postcount: 2068

Thanks Brad.


 
 Return to top of page · Post #: 34 · Written at 9:32:27 PM on 25 August 2020.
Marcc's avatar
 Location: Wangaratta, VIC
 Member since 21 February 2009
 Member #: 438
 Postcount: 5364

Before starting underneath, I would be considering an action plan for the top of the chassis. One can be so much more brutal to a grotty tuning gang when is removed & its so much more accessible. That also goes for the chassis top as you can use a small orbital sander with Emery cloth on it to remove the paint & surface rust.

Makes a bigger job of it, but with lock downs etc. its productive.

As noted, here things are that slow that the, tractor could not be taken out of service & in this week it is poised to do a 2hr job which is weather dependant and dependant on someone not breaking something & I get a call out to fix it. Farming does not stop.

Marc


 
 Return to top of page · Post #: 35 · Written at 10:01:31 AM on 26 August 2020.
Jimb's Gravatar
 Location: Kanahooka, NSW
 Member since 18 November 2016
 Member #: 2012
 Postcount: 712

That would be a challangeing restoration project Robbert can understand why you would not want another.


 
 Return to top of page · Post #: 36 · Written at 6:50:33 PM on 1 September 2020.
Fred Lever's Gravatar
 Location: Toongabbie, NSW
 Member since 19 November 2015
 Member #: 1828
 Postcount: 1303

Hi Guys, can somebody help here?

The "Radiomuseum" site has the Philips 100 circuit and data showing but when I click on the circuit and try to download all I get is a fuzzy tiny download.
Only really need the circuit, can someone just download a readable copy for me from there or somewhere else.?
I cannot figure out how to do it!

I down loaded the update 100A leaflet from Kevin Chants site, thanks Kevin.

Cheers, Fred.


 
 Return to top of page · Post #: 37 · Written at 9:31:07 PM on 1 September 2020.
Marcc's avatar
 Location: Wangaratta, VIC
 Member since 21 February 2009
 Member #: 438
 Postcount: 5364

It's in AORSM's as well.

Marc


 
 Return to top of page · Post #: 38 · Written at 10:20:47 PM on 1 September 2020.
MonochromeTV's avatar
 Location: Melbourne, VIC
 Member since 20 September 2011
 Member #: 1009
 Postcount: 1201

I sent Fred a pdf copy of the manual.

The AORSM version is abridged.

Radiomuseum has the full manual, but you have to download a page at a time which may exceed the daily limit.


 
 Return to top of page · Post #: 39 · Written at 11:25:51 PM on 1 September 2020.
Marcc's avatar
 Location: Wangaratta, VIC
 Member since 21 February 2009
 Member #: 438
 Postcount: 5364

At least with RM you can pick the pages if there is a download issue. With AORSM's & Rider a lot of info is scant & seems to be aimed at the experienced & trained. The German data sheets tend to be the best; They list element voltages & current & you can as a result, often fault find successfully, with the most basic of equipment.

At the end of the day all one needs is enough info to get themselves out of the poo.

Marc


 
 Return to top of page · Post #: 40 · Written at 7:23:20 AM on 2 September 2020.
Fred Lever's Gravatar
 Location: Toongabbie, NSW
 Member since 19 November 2015
 Member #: 1828
 Postcount: 1303

Thanks Mono, receive ok.

Now I can see the chassis in the hand it is full of "challenges"!
The top side is rusted into the plating, the components are corroded.
Underside is clean as a whistle!
Unfortunately some of the valve sockets are top mounted so I cannot simply lift the sockets and point to point wiring away from the bottom and treat the chassis bare. Not to worry I have a plan involving saving the rotten rubber wiring. If you move it now it cracks and falls off!
The transformers need rewinding, that is straightforward.
The speaker needs a re-build, the cone is rotten, thats easy.
All the caps are throwaways and all the carbon resistors ditto.
I can repack the electros.

The very first thing to do will be to power up the front end two valves and check the tuning and oscillator coils are working and the IF mixes and amplifys ok.
This is crucial as typical with Philips they used the trimmers you wind or unwind bits of wire off to set the frequencys.
The coils are those horrible air cored things sealed in cans, hopefully properly impregnated.
Those front ends were "set and forget" and I do not want to rewire anything in the front end that changes the stray capacitances and de-tunes the circuits! The IF system uses a plate choke on the mixer and a normal coil on the detector, will be interesting to see how well it works.

The cabinet is complete but badly corroded on top. I will cut that back and re-spray in one of the Philips colours either the Apple green or the Ice blue. I hate crap Brown! (Yes I know they call it Walnut).

Yep Marcc I'm in the poo with this one but that just makes it more interesting!
I'll start a "special projects" thread and let you all know how it goes.

Fred.


 
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