Hi guys I have sent some photos of this to Brad. The battery wires on one plug has been hacked a bit on the 90 volt section . Just wanting to see if you could help me clarify them. The plug for the 1.5 volt supply looks like it's coming from a strange place as well.

Could only spot 453P On it the "A" battery is Negative earth and the B seems to have some form of back bias as "B-" goes to ground via a 400 Ohm resistor.

When you see the photos I sent , you will see a few wires with out a plug , obviously the plug has been removed , but why ? , I don't know.

I don't find that at all unusual, sounds rather tame. It is incredible what has turned up here at times, under the heading of "can you fix this"?

I have see some incredible hacks; From idiotic failed modifications, to one where the field coil was removed with a cold chisel & put back on with a stick welder. Two had been powered with mains cables that were a series of 3/16" beads.

the plug has been removed , but why ?

If you are referring to the battery plug then, at a guess, it may have been pinched for another set. Those plugs are unobtanium.

Not sure about unobtanium. America still produces some of those batteries (for a price) and I have a feeling that I have seen new plugs. No 6 cells are still with us here.

This is one of them for an example:

https://retrovoltage.com/2015/05/21/need-45v-batteries-for-your-old-radio/

Yes, am familiar with batteries, but the question goes to plugs.

If someone is making repro plugs, then a link would be useful.

OK, you have 4 wires for the B battery and two for the A battery. You'll need an ohm-meter.

Starting with the power switch OFF:

"A" battery wires (red and black).

Confirm that the black wire measures zero ohms (or close) to the chassis. That's your A-
The red wire is A+, it goes to the power switch wafer.

"B" battery wires (Orange, White and two Blues)

Firstly, two of these wires will be connected together. Check for this first with your ohm-meter, you can rule them out, they are the link between the two B batteries.

Another wire (probably the remaining blue one) will measure 400 ohms to chassis. That is your B-

The remaining wire (orange or white?) is your B+ which goes to another terminal on the power switch wafer.

Sorted!

That's an interesting radio, it has short wave? The 453P does, I'm assuming the 453PZ is a later revision to the same design.

Yes it is a very interesting radio. The two B battery plugs are actually intact . The A battery plug is not. But there are two other wires as well which is confusing. I know thw radio has the option of running on a lower power as it has a medium and full setting on the on/off switch. you will see the wires in question when the pictures are up.

I have had time to study the service manual for this so thats why I have said that the 90volt plugs are ok and I have identified the a battery wires but what are the blue and white wires.

The blue and white wires are the link between the two 45 volt batteries to connect them in series to get 90 volts. You can confirm this by measuring ohms between them - you should get close enough to zero.

If so, you can safely ignore (don't connect) them (unless you want to use two original 45 volt batteries that is.)

What sort of threw me was one of the 45 volt plugs was coming out on top of the chassis and the other is under the chassis . After looking at the schematics and reading your explanation now it has come clear that there really is no issues.
At least I hope so lol.

Photos uploaded.

Solved the mystery of the model numbers....

The 453P is a dual-wave set with an RF stage.
The 453PZ is a MW only set with an RF stage.

When you look at the manual you'll see why the battery plug wires appear in funny places. It's to do with the relative positions of the batteries.

The 453P is a dual-wave set with an RF stage.
The 453PZ is a MW only set with an RF stage.

No, that is not correct. Both 453P & 453PZ are the same & both have short-wave. It is the 452P that is the broadcast only version.

With the AWA model designation system the "Z" indicates the first version or first change. These changes could be minor cosmetic or electrical. Any subsequent changes will be shown as Y, X, W, etc.

It actually has a shortwave switch down on one the sides. I am now looking forward to powering this one up.