HMV F3-A2 - Request for information
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Location: Albury, NSW
Member since 2 July 2017
Member #: 2134
Postcount: 172
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Hi Brad
Thanks for uploading the photos and fixing my avatar. Did I pick one that was to big ?
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Administrator
Location: Naremburn, NSW
Member since 15 November 2005
Member #: 1
Postcount: 7300
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Did I pick one that was to big ?
I did reduce the image to the standard size so it loads quicker but the mistake was the URL you had set. It's all sorted now though. I should ponder on a new avatar for myself - I've had the koala since these forums could display avatars.
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A valve a day keeps the transistor away...
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Location: Belrose, NSW
Member since 31 December 2015
Member #: 1844
Postcount: 2369
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Yes I got your email too.Here is a copy of what I said:
Yes that is a top-of-the-line model. Beale and Co. used to make pianos. Congratulations, that is a rare find!
The CRT looks like a replacement, the neck is shorter than the original. Some fool has clipped the original ion trap to the CRT's base, it should not be there. Because it is a newer, short neck tube the centering magnets will probably have to go also, as on my Kriesler of similar vintage because they will defocus the image.
There is a label on the RHS of the tube. I don't recognise it as from a major CRT maker. What does it say?
One of the 6N3 rectifiers is missing, another reason not to power this set up!
What you might consider doing is removing the chassis and taking some pictures of what's underneath. To do this:
Carefully unplug the white socket from the CRT base Hold the CRT base while you do so so you don't stress the CRT.
The plug that connects the deflection yoke is next. The yoke is inside that big cone-shaped metal thing on the tube neck - don't remove that, just unplug the cable that comes out of it from its socket on the chassis. It is a round plug about 25mm diameter.
Then the EHT connector on the side of the CRT. It might just unclip easily or you may have to lift the rubber skirt and very carefully unclip the spring clip thingy from the cavity socket on the CRT.
Unplug the speaker cable from the chassis.
Remove the 4 bolts with square washers underneath the chassis in the speaker compartment. Very carefully remove the channel, fine tuning, volume and brightness knobs. There will be 4 little white knobs under the front flap, they pull off. Then you can slide the chassis out. Be careful not to push any of the vales sideways, both they and the sockets are easily damaged.
Take some good, hi-res pics of the underside of the chassis and send them to me. I'll then have an idea of what will need to be done.
If you are lucky someone has done an overhaul of the chassis already, maybe in the late 60s or early 70s.
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Location: Albury, NSW
Member since 2 July 2017
Member #: 2134
Postcount: 172
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Location: Albury, NSW
Member since 2 July 2017
Member #: 2134
Postcount: 172
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Location: Sydney, NSW
Member since 28 January 2011
Member #: 823
Postcount: 6686
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Now that I see those Gumtree ad photos, I can say that's exactly the set my grandparents owned, sans the Beale cabinet.
It was still going strong in 1969, and I think it was taken by an estate clearer when their house was sold.
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Location: Albury, NSW
Member since 2 July 2017
Member #: 2134
Postcount: 172
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Ian Robertson
I received the TV today and it really is in lovely condition.
The label on the tube says "Thomas" Serial No 30882FR
I will try and get more detailed hi-res pictures for you of the chassis and CRT.
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Location: Albury, NSW
Member since 2 July 2017
Member #: 2134
Postcount: 172
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Ian
Thanks for the updates on my F3 chassis.
Sounds like your having some luck with re-forming the electros, this is good news.
You said that all the Paper UCC caps are duds. How many roughly are there in the Chassis.
Stephen
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