Pete

Thanks for the tip.

I might try both and see how I go.
That way I can get it up to Ian sooner rather than later.

Steve

Pete

I heard back from the seller. They checked the chassis and have identified it as an F5 A6 which was called an "Ascot" and is from 1959.

I sent the pictures to Ian Robertson who indicated that it looks to be in very good order.

I am after an F3 so I will just keep looking.

The F5 is just a very minor update to the F3, they are completely interchangeable in every way.

The main differences throughout the F series are:

2 x 5AS4 rectifiers in place of 2 x 6N3

Audio output stage - some models had 2 x 6BM8s in PP, others, a single 6BM8..

Tuner - early models Philips AT7580 (6CW7 RF amp), later models, NT3001 (6ES8 RF amp).

That's really about it.

Further on HMV F series:

The F series is based heavily on the previous E2 (17" 70 degree) chassis which incorporated numerous improvements over the E1, which was HMV Australia's first TV chassis.

F1, F3, F4 and F5 are the same with small changes I'll detail below.

The F1 used a 6BX6 1st IF. All other models used the newer 6BY7 - better AGC control.

The F2 was a cut-down chassis with 3 VIF stages instead of 4 and single-ended audio instead of push-pull. Otherwise the same.

The F1 and F3 used 6N3 rectifiers. The F2, F4 and F5 used a pair of 5AS4s.

The F5 had a different noise gated sync separator circuit using a 6CS6 instead of a 6BL8. I can't see any functional difference in this circuit, my guess is they were just trying out the new sync separator circuit that they'd use in the next generation 110 degree chassis, the M1.

I can't see any significant differences between the F1, F3 and F4 chassis, but at some stage I think the Philips tuner model changed. They are interchangeable though.

All major parts are the same or interchangeable throughout the F series.

By the way, in the next generation 110 degree chassis, if the chassis model number started with M, MSP line transformer and yoke were used. If P, Philips transformer and yoke were fitted. The circuit was often unchanged otherwise.

Thanks Ian

This is very comprehensive, I guess I just assumed the F5 would be quite different although I guess there is only a years difference between the models.

I am now learning more about the differences between all these late 50's HMV's

Would you be happy for me to courier my F3 Chassis up to you ?
I can pack it very carefully ?

Absolutely!

Thanks to Pete I now have a couple of small test CRTs, so, just the chassis and the yoke. Just the inside of it, not the big metal cover.

Consider removing the flexible control shaft extensions on the front of the chassis, they can break in transit.

Ian

Just to check, the flexible control shaft extensions, are these what the knobs go onto.
I think this is what you are referring to as they stick out the front of the chassis.

That's them!

Ian

I am preparing the chassis to be transported to you.

1. Can you give me a tip on removing the yoke safely.
2. I have removed the four contrast, brightness etc control shaft extensions. What about the two main knobs, do I just leave them as is.?

I will also have to get your address for the courier to deliver it to you.
You can email that to me if you like.

Thanks

Regards
Steve

Removing the yoke:

Carefully unplug yoke & CRT, holding CRT base while you remove the socket.
Carefully slide the centering magnets off the neck, over the CRT base. (you may well not be refitting these, see my comments elsewhere).
Loosen the 4 side straps around the yoke housing and unhook them.
There is a handle poking out the top of the yoke housing for moving the yoke to level the picture. Move this side to side, checking that it moves freely.
Slide the yoke housing with the yoke in it off the CRT, being careful not to apply too much pressure on the CRT neck.
Unscrew the yoke handle and remove the yoke from the housing.

Assembly, as they say, is the reverse process of dissasembly!

You would have had to remove the main knobs to get the chassis out. The outer gold rings have clear plastic inners that break easily.

The best place to deliver the chassis would be the office since I'm not home during the day. Address is:

CommBox P/L
3B/10 Rodborough Rd
Frenchs Forest 2086.

Hi Ian

The handle poking out the top doesn't move freely, it doesn't move at all.

Please see picture of where I have got to so far.

Thanks Brad for uploading the picture.

Thanks
Steve

Regarding couriers, I have used Pack&Send a number of times, including to collect a package from Albury. I did it all online. I use them mostly to collect for me -- a receiver-initiated pickup.

They farm the jobs out to local couriers.

Thanks GTC

I will check them out.

Appreciate your assistance

The handle won't move freely unless the 4 side straps are loose.
Let's assume you've loosened / undone them, the yoke cover is loose but the handle won't move.

OK then, unscrew the handle.and remove the cover.
First try pouring some metho into the gap between the yoke and the CRT. Let it sit for half an hour and grasp it in both hands and try to rotate it.
If that fails, warm the whole thing up with a hairdryer and try again.

Try pulling the outer parts of the yoke away from the cone of the CRT with your fingers, try to rotate at the same time.

That should work.

One other thing: if desired, in order to avoid missed deliveries because of no one at home you can arrange to have the package shipped to the closest P&S office for collection.